As the home of Elvis Presley and birthplace of both the legendary Stax and Sun record labels, few cities can rival the music pedigree of Memphis, Tennessee.
And the beat is still well and truly alive, from the blues joints on Beale Street, to a new generation of artists, including Memphis-born-and-bred superstar Justin Timberlake.
Graceland
Few visitors will leave without visiting Graceland. An audio commentary leads you up to the famous white stucco building, surrounded by a mix of avid fans and those with a more detached and arbitrary interest.
As well as checking out the exuberantly decorated house, there’s also a collection of records and memorabilia in the squash courts, and exhibitions dedicated to Elvis’s cars and his film career.
His private jet, the Lisa Marie, is also on show. Whether clients get all shook up over Elvis or not, it’s definitely worth a visit for a real insight into the man behind the rhinestones.
Stax
Downtown, visit a Memphis institution at the Stax Museum of America Soul Music.
The blocky red lettering of the Stax logo became synonymous with southern 1960s soul, and the museum takes visitors through the fascinating story of this groundbreaking record label, where black and white musicians worked and played together despite racial tensions outside the studio walls.
Visitors can tap their toes to the tunes of Stax stars such a Otis Redding, Isaac Hayes, Sam and Dave, and Booker T and the MGs, in the rooms where the originals were recorded.
Sun
Sun Studio offers a personal tour through its tiny, ramshackle premises. Passionate guides escort each group, making history come alive as they recall the myriad stars who recorded here.
This unassuming room was the setting for the million dollar quartet recordings – an impromptu jam session that took place in December 1956 between Elvis, Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins and Johnny Cash.
It was also here that Elvis made his first recording, paying $3.98 to record My Happiness as a birthday present for his mother. Fans can pose for a photo with the microphone he used.
Rock’n’Soul Museum
For a wider take on the Memphis music scene, recommend the Rock’n’Soul Museum. This traces its roots from bluegrass and gospel, through to the burgeoning of blues, soul and rock and roll.
The museum focuses on those who listened to the music as much as those who played it, showing how rural farming communities gave way to increasing urbanisation.
Live music
Music doesn’t just belong in museums, and you can’t avoid it on the streets of Memphis. Clients will stumble across impromptu gigs from up-and-coming bands on street corners or in a park bandstand, or they can have a beer or two and listen to the larger names who play Beale Street’s blues clubs.
Blues legend BB King owns a club on the street, and even at 84, is still performing. For atmosphere, don’t miss Earnestine and Hazel’s, a brothel-turned-juke joint with fading décor, chipped paintwork and welcoming bar staff. The Hi-Tone Cafe features up-and-coming local acts and sometimes more famous ones.
If clients are serious music fans or simply want to get under the skin of Memphis, recommend a tour with American Dream Safari. A drive in Tad Pierson’s beautifully restored cream 55 Cadillac is a unique privilege as he finds underground juke joints and under-the-radar bands in areas far off the beaten tourist track, and shares his musings on the city and its music scene.
The city centre
Memphis has lots to offer as a city break destination. In contrast to the sprawl of the surrounding area, the centre is conveniently compact for short stay visitors.
Restored antique trolley cars provide a fun and atmospheric way to get around the downtown area. Graceland is out of town, but if clients take the tour of Sun Studio they can get a free shuttle to Elvis’s home.
History
Modern-day Memphis is a picture of harmony. It’s hard to believe that only 50 years ago it was a hotbed of racial tension, which came to a head in 1968 when Martin Luther King was assassinated at the city’s Lorraine Motel.
The building is now the National Civil Rights Museum, a moving must-see for any visitor, which charts the history of the race rights struggle in America as well as vividly outlining the tragic details of King’s death.
Also recommend the Slave Haven Underground Railroad Museum at the Burkle Estate. This 19th-century home was used as a stop-off point for runaway slaves on their way to the free states north of the Ohio River.
There are trap doors, secret cellars and artefacts telling the stories of those who helped runaways on their way to freedom.
Food
Memphis locals are rightly proud of their barbecue skills, and you can’t go far without the scent of hickory smoke hitting your nostrils.
Visitors should try the classics – ribs or pulled pork coated with a dry rub made from garlic, onions, paprika, cumin and other spices, served with a tangy sauce on the side. The Rendezvous dining room started grilling in 1948 and has become the city’s most famous barbecue spot.
For southern flavours try Arcade, a kitschy diner favoured by Elvis. The sweet potato pancakes with bacon or sausage, eggs, syrup and grits make a more than substantial start to the day. A similarly artery-busting lunch is the King’s favourite – a fried peanut butter and banana sandwich.
Sample product: Memphis also makes a natural fit with Nashville and New Orleans as part of a ‘sounds of the South’-type itinerary for music lovers who are into country and western and jazz, as well as blues and rock and roll.
Sample product
Jetsave offers a 12-day Southern Music and Dixieland tour visiting these three cities departing on March 5 from £1,249 including flights from Heathrow (0871 664 0293).
Singles specialist Just You offers a 14-day Music Capitals of the Deep South itinerary from £2,179 (0844 567 9913).
Kuoni offers three nights room only at the Doubletree Memphis Downtown from £752, including flights from Heathrow (01306 747008).
More from Joanna’s trip to Memphis
Picture: Patrick Frilet / Rex Features
