Cut down the middle by the mighty Bosphorus, Istanbul spans two continents – making this year’s European Capital of Culture at least half Asian.
And with the international spotlight firmly fixed on the city this year, and a wide range of cultural events planned, its inhabitants will be prouder than ever to show off its Europe-meets-Asia charms. Special events include film and literature festivals, ballet competitions, special exhibitions and performances.
Alternatively, Turkey specialist IAH Holidays has set up a website containing details of city tours as well as local events and information called istanbulcityofculture2010.com. Agents can earn commission of 12%-15% on bookings depending on the size of the order (0871 855 2925).
Sights
Civilisations have risen and fallen in Istanbul, and the city has preserved and reused the remnants of each with admirable practicality.
The landmark Hagia Sophia started life as a Byzantine cathedral and for 1,000 years it was the largest in the world. In 1453, when the city fell to the Ottoman Turks, it was converted into the Aya Sofya mosque and minarets were added.
In 1935 it was turned into a museum, and now hordes flock to marvel at its huge scale and ornate interior, which has been specially restored in preparation for the city’s year as cultural capital.
Equally breathtaking is the Blue Mosque, with its six minarets and many curving domes. Its name refers to the shade of the tiles inside, where detailed mosaics cover every surface.
Recommend clients dedicate plenty of time to see the Topkapi Palace, where extra restorations have taken place. This network of courtyards and stately buildings was the home of the Ottoman Sultans for nearly 400 years.
Special tours are offered of the Harem – the inner sanctum containing the private chambers of the royal family.
The Dolmabahçe Palace, a European-style building further up the Bosphorus, to which the Sultans relocated in 1856, provides an excellent contrast for those with a strong historical interest.
Though the city’s skyline is a thing of beauty, visitors should look down too. The Yerebatan Sarnici is a huge cistern, buried beneath the centre of Sultanahmet, and is a hauntingly beautiful sight.
Its vaulted arches are supported on 336 nine-metre-high stone columns. Bond fans may recognise it from the 1963 film From Russia With Love, where Sean Connery rows through it in a boat.
It’s not all about ancient history. The Istanbul Modern art gallery boasts a varied permanent collection from Turkish artists, cutting-edge temporary exhibits and a fabulous cafe with views across the Bosphorus.
Experiences
In Istanbul you’re never far from water, whether it be the Golden Horn, the Sea of Marmara, or the Bosphorus itself. Recommend clients make the most of this with a Bosphorus cruise.
Countless boats go down this river, some stopping often and taking all day to make their way up and down, and others just a couple of hours, stopping briefly on the Asian side so cruisers can make sure they’ve trodden on two continents in one day. The views are wonderful, and the trip demonstrates how far the outskirts of the city stretch.
Sightseeing in Istanbul can be a hectic exercise, and there’s no better way to unwind than with a traditional hamam. Clients can choose a high-end experience in one of the luxury hotel spas, or go traditional in a local bathhouse. Here, after relaxing in a steam bath, clients are lathered up and given a thorough scrub massage. Afterwards, they can relax wrapped in towels with a glass of Turkish tea.
Turkey is home to the Mevlevi sect, more commonly known as whirling dervishes. Their famous spinning is a form of prayer and meditation, and in Istanbul it is possible to see mevlana shows in theatres.
For the genuine article, see an official Sema ceremony through the Mevlevi Museum. Its base in the Beyoglu district, is currently closed for refurbishment, however, performances now occur in a theatre on the Istiklal Caddesi.
From the high street highlights of Beyoglu’s main drag the Istiklal Caddesi to the labyrinthine bazaars, shoppers have plenty to spend their lira on. The warren of 61 streets of the covered Grand Bazaar are as much fun for browsing as buying.
Clients can wander among more than 4,400 shops and stalls selling goods such as spices, shoes, leather goods and carpets. The sales patter is relatively low-key, so they won’t feel too harried. Designer names and elegant boutiques can be found in the upmarket Nisantasi and Levent areas.
Nightlife
Eating out is a joy in Istanbul, and buzzing Beyoglu is the best place to head in the evening. Clients with cash to splash should book a table at Mikla, a world-class Mediterranean restaurant at the top of the Marmara Pera hotel, where the views are only surpassed by the flavours.
However, there’s no need to spend big bucks to get great food. Local restaurants offer a range of mezze, grills and fish dishes – try the drag of restaurants off Istiklal Caddesi on Nevizade Sokak.
Many Turkish specialities can be bought as street food – kebabs, pide (Turkish pizza) and bagel-like simit.
Visitors can watch the rows of men fishing off the Galata Bridge and grab a fresh and delicious barbecued mackerel sandwich from one of the restaurants under the bridge, or from boat-cafes tied to the quay. At almost every street corner, stalls offer freshly-squeezed pomegranate juice for a couple of lira.
A good night out isn’t hard to find in Istanbul. Recommend the Cicek Pasaji for lively meyhanes, or Turkish pubs. Clients can sit around small wooden tables and drink pints of local Efes beer. Bars and clubs are mainly concentrated in the Beyoglu, Taksim and Ortakoy areas.
Where to stay
The most conveniently situated hotels for sightseeing are in Sultanahmet and Beyoglu, where there is a wide range of properties ranging from international brands to boutique character hotels.
There are also some luxury hotels such as the Ciragan Palace Kempinksi and the Four Seasons Bosphorus. Most UK tourists stay on the European side of the Bosphorus.
Cox and Kings offers four nights for the price of three at the historic boutique Avicenna Hotel until the end of February, from £375 per person on a bed and breakfast basis including British Airways flights and transfers (020 7873 5000).
Though Istanbul works perfectly as a city break destination, it’s also possible to twin it with relaxing beach time on the Turkish coast.
Classic Collection Holidays offers four nights’ bed and breakfast at the Four Seasons Sultanahmet or Four Seasons Bosphorus and six nights all-inclusive at the Xanadu Island all-suite hotel in Turgutreis from £2,165 per person in June. Price includes return flights, internal flights Istanbul/Bodrum and private transfers (0800 008 7288).
Getting there
British Airways and Turkish Airlines fly daily from Heathrow to Istanbul Ataturk. Easyjet also flies into this airport on the European side from Luton and Gatwick, and low-cost carrier Pegasus flies from Stansted into Sabiha Gokçen on the Asian side.
Visas, which cost £10, can easily be purchased at the airport on arrival.
Alternatively, clients with more time could take the train. The luxury Danube Express travels more than 2,500 miles through nine countries. An eight-day itinerary takes passengers all the way from St Pancras to Istanbul by train, stopping at destinations en route and for two days in Istanbul.
Getting around
The wider city is huge, though many of the major sights are in the Sultanahmet area on the European side. On the northern bank of the Golden Horn – the river that runs through the European side of Istanbul into the Bosphorus – the Beyoglu district is the home of the city’s best shopping and nightlife.
Taxis are cheap, but warn clients to ensure drivers turn on the meter, otherwise they could be stung for more than they owe. A clean, prompt and easy-to-navigate tram system runs through the centre and is a great way to get around.
