Delhi (two nights) – so begins many a tour itinerary in India, as passengers touch down into the capital city on one of the many direct flights from the UK.
Most of them will be hopping off to Agra, Darjeeling, Varanasi or deep into Rajasthan to immerse themselves in India’s sights, sounds and smells, leaving Delhi sidelined in the rush to tick off these headline sights.
However, there’s a reason that tours spend two or three nights in Delhi before moving on: it’s a fascinating place in its own right.
Sights
Old Delhi can be found to the north, with many historical sights including the Red Fort, a Mughal palace complex surrounded by a wall that’s more than a mile long and, at some points, 33m high. Inside are white marble palaces, and, incongruously, ugly barracks once occupied by the British Army.
The nearby Jama Masjid is the largest mosque in India, with a courtyard that can hold 25,000 people. It’s beautifully designed in sandstone and marble, and it is possible to climb the minaret and see out over Delhi. Both these buildings were constructed under the orders of Shah Jahan, the ruler who commissioned the Taj Mahal.
Outside the Red Fort runs Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi’s chaotic main street. A rickshaw ride along it is a thrilling journey.
To the south, New Delhi’s broad boulevards, parks and Raj-era architecture provide a counterpoint to the bustle. Designed by architect Edwin Lutyens, the area is home to Delhi’s business district, Connaught Place, and the government district, centred on the broad street Rajpath, where visitors can see Parliament House and the President’s House, and at the very end, the vast India Gate – a tribute to the 90,000 Indian troops who died in the First World War.
Also in this area of Delhi, visitors can check out Humayun’s Tomb, a beautiful example of early Mughal architecture; the Jantar Mantar Obervatory, a towering collection of terracotta red, 18th-century star-gazing structures; and the National Museum, National Gallery of Modern Art, and Crafts Museum.
Tell clients it’s worth heading further south to see the 73m-high Qutb Minar, an intricately-carved mosque tower dating back to the 12th century, and the equally stunning but very modern Bahai Temple, completed in 1986.
With its flower-like shape it is nicknamed the Lotus Temple for good reason, and is intended, as is the case with all Bahai temples, as a place where people of all religions can worship.
Shopping
Delhi is a city of bazaars and markets, so other than in shopping emporiums and fixed-price shops, clients will need to haggle – but this is half the fun.
The area around Chandni Chowk is a maze of bazaars, selling textiles, jewellery, metalwork, woodwork, carpets and leather goods. It’s fun, but also frenetic, so not for the faint-hearted.
For a calmer experience, Dilli Haat, is a crafts bazaar with goods from all over India, and food stalls offering regional dishes. For clients who hate bargaining, suggest the fixed-price state emporiums on Baba Kharak Singh Marg.
For upmarket shops, try Connaught Place, Khan Market, and the area around the famous furnishings store Fab India.
Tour itineraries
The most common tour is India’s famous Golden Triangle: Delhi, Agra, for the Taj Mahal, and Jaipur. Many also stop at the ruined city of Fatehpur Sikri, a perfectly-preserved ghost town.
It’s often possible to add on time at one of India’s national parks to see tigers. The nearest option is Ranthambore.
Other tours visit Jaipur and go deeper into Rajasthan, visiting Jodhpur, Udaipur, Bikaner and Jaisalmer, visiting forts and palaces, villages and the desert.Some follow the Ganges, stopping at Agra, Khajuraho, Varanasi, Lucknow and Kolkata.
Delhi is also often the entry point to India for tours of the western Himalayas, including Ladakh and Shimla.
Insider’s Delhi: Tips from the experts
“Delhi is great fun. There’s lots to do, and good-value shopping and eating out. I recommend staying in The Imperial – it’s divine. You’re really pampered, and its restaurant, The Spice Route, is superb. It offers cuisine from all over India.
“For a lower-budget property, try Hotel Clark. We’ve started offering homestay options in Delhi too – large family houses where the kids have gone off to university and the parents have spare space and time. Guests can eat home-cooked meals and get a real insider’s view of the city.”
Ash Sofat, chief executive, Somak Holidays
“As the country’s capital, there are numerous sites to explore, such as the famous Red Fort, the Jama Masjid mosque and the teeming bazaars of Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi.
“My tip for hassle-free fixed-price shopping is the Khan Market. If clients want to get away from the crowds I would recommend the Lodi Gardens in South Delhi.”
Balaji Kandasamy, India product manager, Cox & Kings
“We like to offer clients a real cultural insight into this fantastic city, and arrange a tour which begins with a ride on the Metro so visitors can really get the feel for what it’s like to travel as a local.
“Then they tour Old Delhi on foot and rickshaw, spending time in the spice market, Marigold flower market, shoe market and silver street. You get a real feel for the local customs and ways of business.”
Steven Lidgey, Asia product manager, Bales Worldwide
Sample product
Kuoni offers the escorted Taj Tour on a bed-and-breakfast basis, staying two nights in Delhi, two nights in Agra and two nights in Jaipur, plus three nights on the Tigers of Ranthambore extension, staying in the Ranthambore Regency Hotel.
The package includes flights with Virgin Atlantic from Heathrow, transfers, sightseeing and game drives in Ranthambore. Prices for October from £1,190 based on two sharing. kuoni.co.uk, 01306 747008