“How old do you think I am?”
The boatmen of Tobago don’t need to cringe if tourists ask them this touchy question – they have a well-practised answer: “Ten years younger than yesterday.”
The islanders claim that people who bathe in the Nylon Pool – a shallow sandbank off the island’s south coast – lose a decade in looks.
While the bath-warm turquoise waters feel wonderful, I’m not sure that it’s magic that’s at work here. Tobago is just so laid-back that a stress-free holiday is sure to iron out a few lines and wrinkles and leave visitors heading home feeling rejuvenated.
At just 26 miles long and six miles wide, Tobago doesn’t sound as if it’d be much to write home about. But during the colonial period, British, French and Dutch forces fought for possession of it so fiercely that it changed hands 22 times – more than any other island in the Caribbean.
And we Brits are still in love with the island today. Clean, green and serene, Tobago offers travellers the quintessential Caribbean experience: white beaches, curving palm trees, friendly folk, and a pace of life so slow that you can savour every moment of your holiday.
Things to see and do
Lazing in the sunshine is the most popular pursuit in Tobago, and there are plenty of beautiful beaches to choose from. Pigeon Point is the most famous.
This stretch of pure white sand and shallow, warm waters sits at the island’s southern tip, and has a range of amenities, including restaurants and watersports.
Store Bay and Stonehaven Bay are also famous. Further north there are equally beautiful, deserted coves, including Englishman’s Bay, where leatherback turtles come ashore to lay their eggs between March and July.
The thatched jetty at Pigeon Point is a convenient launch point for a boat trip out to Buccoo Reef, an eight-mile-long protected area with many species of coral and colourful fish.
Snorkelling and diving are wonderful – Jacques Cousteau rated it the third-most spectacular reef in the world – but even those who don’t like to get their hair wet can get a close-up view in a glass-bottomed boat. The famed Nylon Pool lies next to Buccoo Reef.
Because Tobago was once part of the South American continent is has a much wider range of flora and fauna than most other Caribbean islands. It’s a natural paradise, home to the oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere, which visitors can trek through and visit the beautiful Argyle Waterfalls. There are over 200 species of birds to spot. Enthusiasts can head to the Caledonia Wildlife Bird Sanctuary or out to offshore haven Little Tobago Island.
Those interested in Tobago’s history can head to Fort King George in Scarborough. It’s a well-preserved monument, and the Tobago museum is located in the former Barrack Guard House.
Richmond Great House is a restored sugar plantation dating back to 1766. For more current culture, head for the studio of Luise Kimme, an artist who creates larger-than-life sculptures of local figures.
Dining and nightlife
Guests who choose not to go all-inclusive have plenty of options. For a memorable location, suggest Jemma’s Seaview Kitchen in Speyside, where the dining area is set on a platform nailed to the massive branches of a 200-year-old almond tree that leans out over the water.
Fresh fish is the order of the day at the Fish Pot at Pleasant Prospect, and specialities of the island are served up right on the beach at Renmar’s Restaurant and Bar at Pigeon Point.
The Seahorse Inn is an island institution offering good food and a great atmosphere. Party animals will enjoy The Shade in Bon Accord, the coolest place to party in Tobago.
The lowdown
- Flights: Virgin Atlantic flies all-year direct on Thursdays. BA stops in Antigua or Barbados flying on Mondays year-round, and Thursdays in summer and Fridays in winter. Monarch’s charter stops in Grenada outbound and flies direct on the return. More flexible options are offered by flying via Barbados.
- Currency: £1 currently worth 9.15 Trinidad and Tobago dollars.
- Language: English
- Weather: Tobago is outside the hurricane belt and averages seven to eight hours of sunshine a day. The temperature is generally about 30C. The wet season runs from July to December; the dry from January to June.
Sample product
Kuoni offers seven nights’ B&B at the Bacolet Beach Club in a Bay De Luxe room, including flights with British Airways from Gatwick and transfers, from £969 per person twin-share in September. 01306 747008
Virgin Holidays offers seven nights’ all-inclusive at the Blue Haven Hotel, including Virgin Atlantic flights from Gatwick and transfers, from £1,338 per person twin-share in September. 0844 557 3982
Cosmos Distant Dreams offers seven nights’ all-inclusive at Turtle Beach, including Monarch flights, from £925 per person. 0871 423 8518
Thomas Cook Signature offers seven nights’ all-inclusive at Coco Reef, including Virgin flights from Gatwick, from £1,519 per person. 0844 879 8014
