FROM the height of Cairo’s Citadel to the east of the city I am amazed at what I can see. Looking southwest, through the hazy early morning light, I can just make out the shape of the Giza Pyramids.
To the north a dusty skyscape of towering minarets and 600-year-old mosques marks the historic old city. In between the two, crumbling tower blocks and gleaming modern structures serve as a reminder that this is the 20th century.
The Citadel, a walled fortress perched on a hill, was home to Egypt’s rulers for 700 years until the mid-18th century, and houses the stunning alabaster mosque of Mohammed Ali, a 19th century viceroy of Egypt.
Today Egyptian families picnic here and tourists vie for views of the city below, yet the grandeur and a sense of serenity remain intact.
As I walk north from the foot of the Citadel, I suddenly find myself back in the Middle Ages. The streets are narrow and bustling, buildings with mashrabiyyah (wood lattice) windows line the pitted paths. Donkeys pull carts loaded with fruit, women carry trays piled with flat bread, kids in ragged clothes push past each other.
The noise, the colours and the smell are intoxicating – it’s easy to get lost in the maze of crowded lanes. This is Old or Islamic Cairo, an area which boasts a higher concentration of medieval mosques and monuments than anywhere else in the world, but which is also the most densely inhabited area of Cairo. A huge renovation project is underway and scaffolding mars the facade of many mosques as attempts to stop history falling apart continue.
There are 150 historic buildings in this small area, a daunting number. I step inside a couple to retreat from the chaos outside and climb a minaret for yet another spectacular view.
At the heart of Old Cairo is the famous Khan Il-Khalili bazaar, one of the largest in the world. It’s a labyrinth of stalls and shops where many craftsmen still work and hungry salesmen hunt tourist money, luring in passers-by. Get used to the ritual “Come my friend, you want perfume? I give you good price. Come see my shop.”
The streets are full of eye-catching spice stands filled with colourful bags of saffron and herbs, dazzling jewellery shops, bright glassware stalls, tradesmen selling in-laid woodwork. If you’re a dab hand at bargaining, there’s many a good deal to be made.
Out on the main street the mayhem continues as Cairo’s army of taxi drivers fight for my custom. A ride in one of the black and yellow cabs is an adventure in itself. Cairo’s roads are notoriously crowded and chaotic.
There appear to be no rules – except use your horn as loudly as you can, drive as fast as you can and brake at the last possible moment. The taxi is decorated with a pink fur dashboard cover, flashing hearts and dangling jewels – Egyptians adore colour and show. They’re loud, friendly and love to laugh. After 10mins I reach Tahrir Square, a landmark in the city centre where every tourist will find themselves at least once. It’s here that the grand building of the Egyptian Museum stands, housing a breathtaking collection of antiquities and mummies, thousands of years old.
Across the road there’s a Mcdonald’s. A man dressed in a traditional galabeya (loose dress) sells Arabic newspapers next door. Groups of old men drink dark, sugary tea from small glasses and smoke shisha (flavoured tobacco) through water pipes in street-side cafes.
Students from the American University in Cairo mill about outside the university gates, wearing western clothes, proudly carrying mobile phones. Veiled women mingle in the crowd. Cairo is a melting pot where east meets west, old meets new, rich meets poor.
As the muezzins bellow out the call to prayer, which they do five times a day, the city seems united for a while. From speakers attached to minarets throughout the city the mesmerising sound echoes around the capital. The sound hangs heavy in the air. Mosques fill. People stop to pray. And then it’s over and life is frantic once more.
When evening falls I walk along the banks of the Nile. Young couples stroll hand in hand, children run up to ask shyly “what’s your name?” People smile and say “welcome to Egypt”. In September the air is still warm and taking a felucca (traditional sailing boat) out onto the river is a perfect way to relax for a while.
As I float on the ‘life blood’ of Egypt, I contemplate this captivating, bustling city. It’s magical, maddening. Exotic, romantic – so rich in history, I know I’ll be back.
Day trips from Cairo
Faiyoum Oasis: just 63 miles southeast of Cairo, this oasis is easy to visit in a day. There’s a huge lake, a market and beautiful views.
Saqqara and Memphis: though stunning, the Pyramids at Giza are on the city’s edge. For Pyramids in the middle of the desert, Saqqara, 13 miles south of Cairo, is the place to go. The remains of Memphis, the ancient capital of Egypt are nearby.
Wadi Natrun: a cultivated valley in the desert, 63 miles northwest of Cairo where Egyptian Coptic Christians took refuge in the fourth century AD. There are four working Coptic monasteries here which date back 1,500 years.
Typical prices
n Kosheri, a dish of pasta, rice, onions and tomato – 50p-£1
n Bottle of local lager – £1
n Bottle of mineral water – 30p
n Taxi to Cairo centre from airport – £10
n Taxi within Cairo, 10mins – £1.50
n Felucca (sailing boat) ride on the Nile, one hour – £6
n Can of Coca Cola – 35p
n Soft drink from street stall – 20p
n Bananas, 2lb – 40p
n Shisha, traditional water pipe, in bar – 25p-£1
n Freshly squeezed juice from stall – 30p