Destinations

Italian idyll: the highlights of Umbria

Umbria is known as Italy’s green heart, but that doesn’t really do it justice. Yes, there are greens – the vines, olive trees, the rolling hills, but there are other colours too, including the red poppies in spring and yellow sunflowers in summer.

This beautiful area is home to historic treasures and great food and wine, alongside the gorgeous landscapes. Brits are wising up to the appeal of Tuscany’s quieter neighbour, but while numbers are rising, Umbria is still the place to choose for a less crowded, less pricey, quintessentially Italian idyll.

Art and culture

Umbria is dotted with gorgeous medieval towns. Assisi – of St Francis fame – has many sights for such a small town, from the ornate Basilica of San Francesco d’Assisi, dotted with frescos by Martini and Giotto, to the Roman Temple of Minerva, incorporated in the church of Santa Maria, and 12th-century fort Rocca Maggiore, which overlooks the Umbrian countryside.

Perugia’s streets are so steep that it has the only external escalators in Italy, which run through the remains of an Etruscan fort. Visitors wandering the streets will see Roman and medieval architecture, and when they head inside its museums and churches they’ll marvel at works of art by some of the area’s Renaissance greats, from Tuscans Piero della Francesca and Fra Angelico to Umbrian son Perugino.

Even the lesser known towns are beautifully preserved – recommend Gubbio, which has a large Roman amphitheatre, and Orvieto, which has a large 13th-century cathedral that towers over the town.

Food and wine

Wine has been made in Umbria since Benedictine monks planted vines in the area. Orvieto’s white wine is world famous, and Umbria’s reds are growing in reputation too.

Visitors should try Sagrantino wines from the Montefalco area – the black grape is native to Umbria and only grows here – and Passito, a red dessert wine made across the region.

To recommend coming to Italy for the food is stating the obvious, but Umbria has some great specialities, with olives and truffles harvested in the area.
 
The Slow Food movement, which highlights local food and regional cooking with an environmental conscience, is strong here. Food festivals are numerous, from smaller events celebrating the area’s mussels, truffles and chestnuts, and even a fish fry on the shores of Lake Trasimeno, to larger events.

Perugia pays tribute to its famous chocolates with a festival in October, with tastings, workshops and chocolate sculptures, and Orvieto holds a popular food festival in the same month.

Nature and activity

Beautiful Lake Trasimeno is one of Italy’s largest, and sits in a National Park studded with picturesque castles and criss-crossed by walking paths. Visitors can swim in the waters, relax on its beaches and visit its islands.

Inghams offers stays near Trasimeno in its Lakes and Mountains brochure and Inntravel has a walking itinerary visiting hilltop villages of the area. HF Holidays also features cycling and walking holidays in Umbria.

Accommodation options

Villa holidays are very popular, and most properties are in rural locations, many featuring pools.

Villas4you has about 60 properties in the region, including country houses, apartments and villas with pools, which sleep from two to 16 people. The majority are in and around Perugia, Assisi and Lake Trasimeno, though there are options in the increasingly popular Citta di Castello and Orvieto too.

Ilios Travel is offering summer discounts on some of its villas in Umbria, and agents can earn a £5 voucher per person booked.Interhome has 196 properties on its books, from a one-bedroom apartment with a steam room in a tiny hamlet near Perugia, to a five-bedroom renovated stone villa with a barbecue and swimming pool near Orvieto – a great option for groups.

The Villa Book’s most recent property in Umbria is unique. Villa Capodacqua is near Foligno and was built in the 14th century as a fortress. Many period features, including the remains of the chapel and tower, have been retained in the process of turning it into a luxury four-bedroom property, with en-suite bathrooms.

Both Kirker and Kuoni offer hotel stays in Umbria – most are smaller, historic properties, often also in rural areas. Most visitors will need to hire a car – it’s also the best way to sightsee in this compact region.

Expert view

Patricia Woodburn, product manager, Ilios TravelPatricia Woodburn, product manager, Ilios Travel

“Perugia, Amelia, Terni and Foligno are excellent alternatives for those who want the mix of culture, history and shopping that Florence offers, but like to avoid the high prices and the  oppressive heat of the city centre in summer.”

Sample packages

The Villa Book offers the four-bedroom Villa Capodacqua, which sleeps eight, from £4,130 for seven nights (with commission rates of 10%). thevillabook.com, 020 7917 6830

Kuoni offers five nights’ bed and breakfast in a classic room at the four-star Antica Dimora Alla Rocca in Trevi including flights from Gatwick and car hire in November from £430 per person twin-share. kuoni.co.uk, 01306 747008

Cresta Holidays offers four nights’ bed and breakfast at the four-star Relais La Corte di Bettona including British Airways flights from Gatwick from £325, departing on October 9. Car hire costs £168 for a Group A car (Fiat Panda) from Rome airport for four days. bctagent.co.uk, 0844 800 701

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