It’s no secret that Egypt’s Red Sea coast is an extraordinary destination for snorkelling and diving, blessed with year-round sunshine, buckets of sand and affordable luxury hotels. And while political unrest continues to rock Egypt, for now at least, the Red Sea resorts remain open for business.
The first time I went to Sharm el-Sheikh in the early 1990s it was a small town with just a handful of hotels. Now it’s a huge all-singing, all-dancing resort and others have sprung up along the coastline to meet visitor demand, including Hurghada and Taba Heights.
Then there is the lesser-known El Gouna. I’ve come to check it out courtesy of Longwood Holidays, which is keen to raise awareness of the resort and all it has to offer.
“This northern Red Sea resort is one of our most popular destinations,” says Longwood’s marketing executive, Blanka Siejek. “El Gouna has an upmarket feel, is hassle-free and has good, well-managed hotels. We have incredibly positive feedback from our clients and anticipate an increase in sales to the resort for 2011 as last year’s clients become repeat guests.”
The proof of the pudding, though, is in the eating, and as we took the 40-minute transfer from Hurghada airport, I was eager to sample some of El Gouna’s Egyptian delights for myself.
First impressions
Edged by desert and with the stunning Red Sea Mountains as a backdrop, El Gouna is built on a series of islands that edge salt-water lagoons. Shops, bars and restaurants cluster around piazza-style squares and two swish marinas choc full of super yachts.
Although the buildings are Moorish in style, the centre of town also has a European feel. Staying at the Mövenpick Resort & Spa (see box for review) I had the perfect base from which to explore. You can walk to the charming downtown area in just 10 minutes.
El Gouna has amazing green credentials – it recycles 96%of its refuse – and is spotlessly clean. What struck me most though, as I wandered through the streets and over the bridges that linked the islands, is how well laid-out, peaceful and laid-back it is.
“We find El Gouna lives up to our clients’ expectations,” says Siejek. “It’s a relaxed alternative to Sharm and Hurghada.”
And El Gouna is pretty quiet. It lacks the frenetic bustle you would find in Sharm and Hurghada and the opportunities to party, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t plenty to do. Paintballing and a go-kart track lie on the edge of town. There is an outdoor cinema and active options include wind and kite-surfing schools, dive centres, and a fabulous golf course.
Two activities I loved were a sunset catamaran cruises aboard Orange Concept’s stylish yacht, and a Bedouin evening where we were entertained by a cast of characters including a pantomime camel and a belly dancer as we sat under a canopy lined with rugs and cushions and feasted on a delicious candlelit buffet.
Watery pursuits
Despite the performers’ best efforts, however, they were upstaged by the fish I saw on a snorkel trip with Emperor Dive Tribe the next day. There are 33 dive sites within an hour’s boat ride of El Gouna and as soon as you dip your head under the water, fish in every size, shape and colour stare back at you in their hundreds as they dart around the coral reefs.
Being a foodie I was also impressed with El Gouna’s restaurant scene. From fish and chips to Vietnamese, Egyptian to French cuisine, the food here is exceptional whatever your budget.
There are good quality hotels to suit all budgets, too. The three-star Captain’s Inn is basic with nice rooms and ideal for surfers or divers. Three Corners Ocean View offers simple rooms and great all-inclusive value and would suit families, while the elegant and romantic, 66-room Dawar El Omda, set on a lagoon in the heart of downtown, is an Arabian-styled boutique hotel perfect for couples.
Excursions
As a resort, El Gouna is most similar to Taba Heights, suiting those who want some sightseeing alongside a peaceful sun, sea and sand holiday.
Keen to see more of the land of the Pharaohs, I took the two-day excursion to Luxor offered by Longwood. First though, I headed to El Gouna’s state-of-the-art library to swot up on my history. The nine-screen, 3D cinema room takes you on a virtual journey through 5,000 years of Egyptian history in 45-minutes – sorted.
At five hours, the journey to Luxor takes a little longer, but I found it passed quickly, thanks to the incredible scenery. First there is desert flatland, then mountains, then farmland with swaying cane fields, children herding goats and chickens running amok before you reach the urban bustle of ancient Luxor. I stayed at the recently refurbished waterfront Hilton Luxor Resort and Spa, whose contemporary Arabian interior and pool area are simply stunning.
Visits to the Valley of the Kings, King Tutankhamun’s tomb, his statue at Luxor Temple and the awe-inspiring Karnak temple are unmissable for anyone remotely interested in Ancient Egypt. After being mesmerised by the sights I prepared to do battle in the souk. They drive a hard bargain here, but it’s a great place to pick up souvenir statues and scarves.
After getting my fill of sightseeing and shopping, I headed back to chill out in El Gouna. Sandwiching Luxor in between had given me the perfect balance of relaxation and culture. I really feel like I have had my cake and eaten it, and who doesn’t want that!
Hotel review
Location: This five-star resort hotel is set in manicured gardens that lead to the pools that border the lagoons that meet the open sea. The 554 spacious rooms and villas are set in clusters across the extensive (350,000sq metres) grounds and a beach of golden sand stretches the length of the property.
Activities: There is a dive centre and kitesurfing school on site as well as two gyms, a football pitch, volleyball and tennis courts, making this a good bet for families and groups of friends.
Restaurants: A selection of eateries and bars include El Sayadin, a seafood restaurant at the water’s edge, built to resemble a wooden fisherman’s hut.
Spa: The hotel’s Angsana Spa is managed by the renowned Banyan Tree group and the treatments blend Eastern and Western techniques. I plumped for the signature Cuisine for the Soul treatment, which combined Swedish and Thai massage, sensual and energising by turns. Bliss.
