It gave the world reggae and was the birthplace of the all-inclusive, and when it comes to tourism, Jamaica is a slick operator with a big personality.
It does have a mixed reputation though, and its edginess is often front of mind when clients are considering a trip to the Caribbean. In a bid to uncover what really makes Jamaica tick, Kim Valente, owner-director of the tour operator Discover Jamaica, took a clutch of travel agents – and me – to this West Indian idyll.
“I organised this trip to help raise awareness of what a great destination Jamaica is,” explains Kim. “The travel agents I invited sell the Caribbean well and value personal service, something we pride ourselves on at Discover Jamaica.
“I wanted to show the group a variety of accommodation and the attractions in the island’s three main resorts – Ocho Rios, Montego Bay and Negril – so that they can recommend the ideal base for each one of their clients, whatever their budget may be.”
Ocho Rios
After flying into Kingston, courtesy of British Airways, we drove past Port Royal, where the pirate Captain Morgan once hung out, glimpsed the Blue Mountains, then edged through the island’s capital where Bob Marley lived.
Two hours later we’d reached the north coast seaside resort of Ocho Rios, which boasts the country’s most-visited attraction, Dunn’s River Falls. It is also home to Dolphin Cove, an interactive sea-life centre, and Mystic Mountain with its zip-line, cable car and bobsleigh ride.
Our pad for the night was the 250-room Jewel Dunn’s River, an all-inclusive for the over-18s set on a pretty but small beach. Formerly a Sandal’s property, it reopened in September 2010. The refurbished rooms are spacious, plush and immaculately clean, which impressed us all, as did the food and the upbeat, courteous staff. Tennis courts, a nine-hole pitch and putt, snorkel tours and a lively nightclub make it ideal for couples and groups of friends.
While in town, we climbed the rocky tiers of Dunn’s River Falls, whose cool waters make your skin tingle. There’s a long sweep of sandy beach at the bottom of the waterfall and a craft market at the summit – a combination that makes for a great day out.
Negril
A four-hour transfer took us to Negril. A hippy hangout back in the 1960s, Negril is now a laid-back resort of mainly low-rise beach-front properties.
We checked into the 312-room Couples Swept Away, which edges Long Bay, a seven-mile stretch of white sand that slinks into shallow, baby-blue water. The view rendered us speechless, though a few cocktails at the beach bar soon changed that.
While all-inclusives are synonymous with indulgence, Swept Away also offers you the chance to reverse that trend, with 10 tennis courts, air-conditioned squash and racket ball courts, a jogging track and 25-metre lap pool, all set in tropical gardens. “There’s a sense of space,” says Wexas agent Daniel Walker. “The accommodation is set apart and secluded by the foliage, and the rooms are simple and minimalist, which I also like.”
A room service breakfast is also offered as part of the inclusion – perfect for a morning of site inspections following a night on the tiles. Our reward was more booze at Rick’s Cafe. This cliff-top bar, which has live reggae and cliff-divers who plunge into the deep for a few bucks in tips, is the best place to watch the sunset.
Montego Bay
Our final stop is a good base for clients who want to play the island’s championship golf courses, bamboo raft along the Martha Brae River or visit Rose Hall great house. We stayed at the 350-suite Secrets Wild Orchid, which opened in March 2010. The rooms, with plump beds and funky showers, got a unanimous thumbs up. The staff, though, were unobliging and at times rude.
The resort’s layout and size reminded me of the large, upscale properties in Playa de las Americas, Tenerife. Utopia Travel agent Kevin Camfield says: “The resort just doesn’t have a Caribbean vibe.”
A break from sight inspections gave us the chance to visit Rose Hall. Set on a former sugar plantation, it’s said to be haunted by former owner Annie Palmer, who collected rich husbands, then disposed of them so she could have affairs with her slave lovers.
“I couldn’t get my camera to work here or my phone,” says Bath Travel agent Dawn Hunter. “It was spooky.” We consoled Dawn with another sundowner. It seemed fitting as it is the way the locals end their day – who are we to argue?
Super duper Jam fam
In 2012, to celebrate 50 years of independence, the Jamaican Tourist Board plans to take 200 UK travel agents on the ‘Jamaica Five-O’ fam trip of a lifetime. The one-week trips, taking place in September and October, will allow agents to learn 50 exciting aspects about the destination.
Agent incentives
- Discover Jamaica is offering 12% commission to agents throughout this year and 2012.
- Agents who make two or more bookings before January 31, 2012 will be in with a chance to win a place on the next Discover Jamaica educational.
- Register online at discoverjamaica.co.uk to enter a prize draw for £100 of Marks & Spencer gift vouchers. The draw closes on November 30, 2011.
What the agents said
Daniel Walker, travel consultant North America and Caribbean, Wexas The Traveller’s Club, Knightsbridge, London
- How did the trip change your perspective of Jamaica? The beaches are longer, wider and better than I expected and the people are naturally friendly.
- Trip highlight: Climbing Dunn’s River Falls. We went first thing and had it all to ourselves.
- Favourite property: Couples Negril. The resort is beautiful and the food was fantastic.
Dawn Hunter, travel consultant, Bath Travel, Shanklin, Isle of Wight
- How did the trip change your perspective of Jamaica? Friends told me to be careful when I said I was going to Jamaica, but I never once felt unsafe. I can now sell it with confidence.
- Trip highlight: The cliff divers at Rick’s Cafe – they’re totally fearless.
- Favourite property: Coyaba Beach Resort, because of the attention to detail and the level of personal service you receive.
Kevin Camfield, managing director, Utopia Travel, Hornchurch, Essex
- How did the trip change your perspective of Jamaica? It’s a hard island to sell because people have heard it’s not safe to leave their hotel. However, I found the opposite to be true. The people are the warmest and friendliest I have met in the Caribbean. I’m going to run a promotion in my shop to encourage people to try it.
- Trip highlight: The seven-mile beach at Negril – it’s absolutely stunning.
- Favourite property: Couples Negril for its intimate ambience and the welcome the staff give you from the minute you step in the door.
Hotel round-up
Jamaica has a fantastic range of accommodation from good-quality basic to stylish luxury. Here are the attendees’ favourites:
Rooms, Negril: Offers 57 clean, bright, low-cost rooms with kitchenettes right on the beach. It has a great pool and the added bonus of complimentary continental breakfast. It is great for independent types.
Coyaba Beach Resort, Montego Bay: A chic, 50-room boutique hideaway a short drive from the resort centre and golf courses. Set on a private beach, it has a fabulous restaurant and is ideal for honeymooners and those who want a quiet resort with an authentic Caribbean feel.
Sunset at the Palms, Negril: This has 85 tree house-style accommodations, with all mod cons, set in jungly gardens across the road from Bloody Bay beach. It’s all-inclusive.
Couples, Negril: A 234-room all-inclusive offering unadulterated luxury without a hefty price tag – it also has a ‘clothing optional’ beach. Particularly suited to couples aged 30-plus.
Sunset Beach, Montego Bay: This all-inclusive with 430 rooms is ideal for families with limited cash to splash. There’s a waterpark, gently sloping beach, kids’ club and a full entertainment programme.
Sample packages
Discover Jamaica offers seven nights with breakfast in a garden deluxe room at Coyaba Beach Resort starting from £1,199 per person, twin-share. The price, valid for bookings made before November 30, for travel until January 31, 2012, includes flights from Gatwick to Montego Bay, private transfers, a welcome basket, non-motorised sports and daily afternoon tea. It excludes December 25-January 5, 2012 and is subject to availability.
Alternatively, seven nights’ all-inclusive in a deluxe garden view room at Couples Negril costs from £2,999 per couple for bookings made by November 30 for stays until December 23, 2011 and January 3-December 31, 2012. Price includes flights from Gatwick to Montego Bay and private transfers. discoverjamaica.co.uk, 020 7078 7518
