Lou is taking the mickey out of me – I’m sure of it. I have made my friendly scuba diving instructor aware of my mortal terror of sharks, and she’s been great at putting my mind at rest, but now she seems to be pointing under a rock and making the sign for ‘shark’.
I lie down on the seabed and peer under the coral outcrop. Oh god. It really is a shark. But as I clutch Lou’s hand I remember the wall chart back on our ship, Ocean Freedom, and realise this is a whitetip reef shark, one of the good guys of the shark family, and my thundering heartbeat relaxes.
Cairns and the Reef
To dive the Great Barrier Reef is one of life’s great privileges. In the space of two, hour-long introductory dives I came face to face with a shark, stroked a turtle, spotted a giant clam and even found Nemo, as dozens of cute little clownfish darted in and out of the bright and varied coral.
Although I had never dived before, and have no Padi qualifications, I was able to take the plunge with a ‘buddy’ instructor who controlled my buoyancy.
The Great Barrier Reef extends for 1,600 miles down the east coast of Australia, so there are a fair few areas you can choose to stay for reef experiences. Cairns is one of the most popular choices, though, and for good reason. The reef is at its nearest to the Australian mainland here, and there’s a wide range of accommodation options.
There are plenty of ways to see the reef, too. Even non-swimmers are catered for, with glass-bottom boats and semi-submersibles that allow you to get a decent view without getting your hair wet.
However, I can’t recommend strongly enough that you urge clients to take the plunge and dive in, even if they only snorkel rather than dive. It’s truly magical.
Boat trips
It’s also more than worth the money and time to take a day boat trip to the outer reef. I visited Green Island. It’s reachable from Cairns on a half-day trip, but the coral here was grey and the fish numbers negligible in comparison to what we saw at Upolu Cay, the reef that Ocean Freedom visits.
This spacious two-deck cruiser carries up to 75 passengers, and the day trip offers six hours out on the reef, with options to snorkel, dive and take a glass-bottom boat tour. Breakfast and a fresh and tasty seafood lunch are provided. oceanfreedom.com.au
Back on dry land, Cairns is a vibrant party town, with plenty of nightlife choices, from backpacker bars to seafood restaurants and even a large casino.
Cuddle a koala
For the chance to see some of Australia’s iconic land-dwelling creatures, visit Cairns Zoo. It’s particularly good for kids, with the opportunity to watch the crocs being fed, wander among wallabies and kangaroos and even cuddle a koala – one of the softest things I’ve ever felt! A bird presentation is held every day at 3.15pm and is rightly one of the zoo’s most popular shows.
Beyond the Reef
The other reason the Cairns region is a brilliant choice for visiting the reef is the array of other activities on offer. Once clients have flown up from Sydney or over from the Red Centre they’ll want to see Queensland’s diversity, and Cairns is perfectly placed for this.
Popular day trips include Kuranda, a town surrounded by the Atherton Tablelands Rainforest, 15 miles from Cairns. Getting there is half the fun: visitors can go by road, but there’s also the Kuranda Scenic Railway, and the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway. As well as the rainforest, attractions include a koala sanctuary and a butterfly park, plus an arts and crafts market.
The beach resorts up and down the coast from Cairns provide quieter alternatives to staying in the city. Palm Cove is the nearest option, and proudly claims the title of Queensland’s Cleanest Beach. Port Douglas is an A-list haunt well suited to luxury travellers, and the gateway to Daintree Rainforest.
Mission Beach, to the south of Cairns, has one of the widest golden beaches I’ve ever seen, stretching nine miles. For its small size, the town offers a grand span of things to do and places to stay. For families, Castaways is a lovely option right on the beach (see box), but for couples with cash, suggest Elandra. This 55-room boutique hotel is in the rainforest above town, and has a laid-back luxury feel. The walk-through from the entrance to the pool deck is stunning and the rooms are lovely. If the budget won’t stretch, suggest clients go for dinner – the food and the views are stupendous.
Sport fans and adrenaline junkies can try sea kayaking and skydiving at the beach. But it’s just as easy to have a more low-key experience. One of my highlights was a relaxing half-day at Echo Creek Adventure and Cultural Camp, just inland at Tully.
The family-owned and run Aboriginal venture offers a range of tours. I took a guided walk down the creek – and floated back on tyre inner-tubes! – learnt to weave with artist Donna and heard the fascinating history of the family from project coordinator Sonya. It’s a place that really provides an opportunity for tourists to learn first hand about Aboriginal culture in a fun way.
Further north, towards Innisfail, is one of the area’s most unusual sights. Paronella Park was the fantasy of a Spanish businessman who came to Australia in 1913 to work in the sugar cane industry. By the 1930s he’d saved enough money to build his own Xanadu – a pleasure park in the rainforest with a castle, tea rooms, ornamental gardens and waterfall. Visitors will feel like they have found a lost city.
Tried and tested: Hotels
The Sebel Cairns, Queensland
A well-heeled choice in central Cairns, the stand-out features of this property are its large rooms with spacious balconies, its airy public spaces which include a ground floor lounge bar next to the restaurant, and the insider’s secret – a huge rooftop pool area perfect for cooling off and sunbathing. Austravel offers rooms from £56 pppn. sebelcairns.com.au.
Castaways Resort & Spa, Mission Beach, Queensland
This friendly hotel is on the money when it comes to position – slap bang on a quiet stretch of the town’s gorgeous beach. The public areas are fantastic: newly renovated with large glazed walls, and some sleek interiors. The bar is quietly buzzing in the evenings with locals and guests, and the restaurant provides delicious modern Aussie fare. Rooms are large, with huge terraces and balconies, although the bathrooms are a little tired. Travel 2 offers rooms from £39 pppn, with breakfast. castaways.com.au
