Forget Athens. For a city break steeped in history, Thessaloniki is a sure thing, says Ian Taylor
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Thessaloniki may not spring to mind as a classic city-break destination or an unmissable part of a beach and tour package to northern Greece. Yet the country’s second city is both.
It boasts a beautiful setting, rich history and terrific food – and possibly the best nightlife in Greece. It’s busy and bustling, but the city is barely on the tourist map despite the deserved popularity of the beaches of nearby Halkidiki.
When the Greek National Tourism Office took a party of Greek specialist operators and agents to Thessaloniki earlier this year, hardly anyone sold the city. All were bowled over by it. After all, how many cities with a population of just over one million have 14 Unesco World Heritage Sites – only two fewer than England?
The city is no longer off the beaten track. British Airways flies four times a week from Gatwick, and easyJet daily from Gatwick and three times a week from Manchester.
The city, sometimes still referred to as Salonica in English, sits on a wide bay north of Halkidiki. Art and architectural treasures include Roman, early Christian, Byzantine and Ottoman, and its unique cultural heritage draws on a rich Jewish history.
In the 20th century, Thessaloniki was transformed – both physically, by a fire that razed two-thirds of the city to the ground, and culturally. The creation of modern-day Turkey at the end of the First World War saw a violent exchange of population, with millions of Greeks and Ottoman Muslims forced from their respective homes, which changed the city overnight.
The German occupation during the Second World War saw all but a handful of Thessaloniki’s 65,000 Jews sent to their deaths in concentration camps.
A consequence of this history is that a visitor fairly stumbles over historic sights. Yet Thessaloniki is far from sombre – it boasts great food, streets and markets full of life and entrancing culture.
Day one
09.30: Stroll down the bay-side promenade to the White Tower – a 15th-century Ottoman structure, formerly a prison and now the City Museum. Climb the tower through a succession of interactive exhibits covering prehistory to the present day. Just be sure to pick up an audio guide as little is in English.
11.00: Head away from the sea into the Old Town, through the twisting lanes of the Kastra district with its centuries-old houses and tiny churches dating from the early years of Christianity, until you reach the city walls. Parts of these date from the fourth century and offer marvellous views over the city and out over the bay to Mount Olympus.
12.30: Whet your appetite at one of the city centre’s two main markets, Modiano or Kapani, where stalls heave with fish, fruit and vegetables, before settling down for a meze lunch at one of the surrounding tavernas.
14.00: Discover the city’s Roman remains by taking a stroll with a Thessaloniki Monuments Map from the tourist office. Don’t miss the Arch of Galerius and the huge fourth-century Rotunda – a building based on Rome’s Pantheon. Now somewhat neglected, the partially visible mosaics give an idea of how glorious it once was. But be quick, as it closes at 3.00pm.
16.30: See the city’s Ottoman architecture by visiting Pazar or Yahudi Hamam, a 16th-century bathhouse that hosts the Louloudadika flower market. Enjoy a sundowner on the roof terrace of the Electra Palace Hotel, overlooking Aristotle Square and with a view out over the bay, before heading back to your hotel to freshen up.
20.30: Dine at the Zithos Dore restaurant near the sea for sumptuous Greek dishes in a traditional setting, with wooden tables and tiled floors.
23.00: Understand the city’s sense of tragedy by taking in a ‘rebetiko’ performance at a taverna. Not unlike Portuguese ‘fado’, this Greek folk music expresses great loss.
Day two
09.00: Take a half-day trip to the village of Vergina, once the ancient city of Aigai and home to the tombs of Macedonian kings. The journey takes about 90 minutes and you need at least two hours at the site. Less than 1% of the ancient city has been excavated and new finds were announced as recently as March.
The Palace of Philip II, father of Alexander the Great, won’t be open to visitors until at least next year. But the Polycentric Museum of Aigai (admission €8), created around the excavated tombs and treasures found within, is full of exquisite artworks dating back to the fourth century BC.
You’ll find painted grave stones, frieze fragments, mosaics, statues and a treasure trove of jewellery, alongside weapons, a suit of leather armour and more everyday items such as a writing box and a standard lamp.
13.30: The Olympiada restaurant is just a short walk away, serving simple and delicious food.
16.00: Returning to Thessaloniki, make time for one more exhibition. The Archeological Museum displays finds from the city and beyond, and places Aigai in context.
20.30: There is plenty of choice when it comes to dinner. For excellent seafood, try the Seven Seas, or for a lively atmosphere head to the colourful Ouzou Melathron, a modern version of a traditional ouzo bar, offering drinking snacks as well as main dishes.
Ask the expert
Elizabeth Bhatia, Olympic Holidays
Thessaloniki has a vibrant city life and a fantastic promenade. The food is amazing, there is a good choice of hotels and so many excursions. I can’t see a downside – it’s a fantastic place to sell. I would recommend it for students, but it isn’t hilly, so it is also suitable for older people and groups. You could book it as a twin-centre with Halkidiki.
Sample Product
Sunvil offers three nights’ bed and breakfast at the five-star Electra Palace Hotel from £743, including easyJet flights from Gatwick and transfers. A city and beach twin-centre including two nights’ bed and breakast at the three-star El Greco in Thessaloniki and five nights’ half-board at the Akroyali Hotel in Olymbiada, Halkidiki, starts at £844, including Thomson flights from Gatwick and transfers.
