There’s an uplifting energy and a sense of fun in this US metropolis, writes Jo Cooke
Like this and want more details? Click here to download and save as a PDF.
Clients are spoilt for choice when it comes to US East Coast city breaks. Plenty of flights connect the UK to big shot the Big Apple, then there’s presidential Washington DC, and walkable Boston. Then there’s Philadelphia, the city that championed America’s land-of-the-free philosophy.
It was the first capital of the US, founded and named back in 1682 by William Penn, a British Quaker. He believed in religious tolerance and welcomed immigrants from all over Europe fleeing persecution.
The Amish were among them and Philly is the gateway to visiting their settlements in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. It’s also a great springboard for those interested in the civil war sites of Richmond and Gettysburg.
That’s in addition to Philly itself having a great mix of art, food, fashion and quirky attractions that more than fill a two-day trip.
Day One
09.00: Fuel up for your first day of city pavement- pounding at Reading Terminal Market. This old rail shed now houses some 80 stalls, a few selling gifts and Amish crafts, the rest delectable edibles. A stack of pancakes, plump sausage sandwiches, traditional pretzels (the Philly staple) and melt-in-the-mouth Parisian-style pastries are all there to tempt you.
10.30: Known as the city of brotherly love, you’ll find that in Philly they put love on a pedestal. A funky red sculpture sporting the four-letter word is elevated on a metal platform in Love Park. Erected to commemorate the United States Bicentennial back in the 1970s, the Love Sculpture has become the ultimate photo opportunity backdrop for lovers, so drop by then post your romantic pose on Facebook.
11.30: Follow that gushy moment with some tough love at the Eastern State Penitentiary. This formidable looking gothic building is both creepy and fascinating to visit. A self-guided audio tour takes you into the cells that incarcerated legendary villains such as Al Capone. No talking was allowed and shoes were wrapped in cloth to keep the silence. The idea was later abandoned as some inmates wound up deaf or mad from the isolation. However, the authority’s intentions were good – this was one of the first prisons in the world to focus on reforming rather than punishing the crooks it housed.
12.00: Good citizenship is in the city’s blood. Head to Independence National Historical Park and you can join the queue to see the iconic Liberty Bell. Inscribed on it are the words: ‘Proclaim liberty throughout all the land unto all the inhabitants thereof’. It was commissioned in 1752 and heralded the Declaration of Independence and the US Constitution – both signed in Philly. The best place to get up to speed with these major nation-building documents is at the red-brick Independence Hall across the street.
13.30: Should all that swotting up on history make you hungry, check out Philly’s China Town. Head through the elaborate and vividly colourful Friendship Gate and take your pick of the restaurants serving dim sum, Thai or Vietnamese fast food.
15.00: Philly is particularly known for its fine art collections, but before you admire the old masters, lose yourself in the wacky world of contemporary artist Isaiah Zagar. Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens is a courtyard gallery featuring a maze of murals, mosaics and sculptures created from recycled materials such as glass bottles, tiles and mirror fragments, bicycle wheels, rakes and plates, all adorned with fairy lights.
19.00: After freshening up back at your hotel, head out for a stroll around the Historic Waterfront District. Focus your attention on the streets around South Street and 3rd Street – it’s one of the coolest neighbourhoods, busy with bars and restaurants brimming with personality.
Day Two
09.30: The easiest way to see a multitude of attractions is on board a Big Bus Tours double-decker. There are 21 stops along its circular route and tickets can be pre-booked through attractionworld.com. From the upper deck you’ll get a great view of Philly’s finest architecture, including City Hall, which is built in the very grand and dramatic French Second Empire style. It contrasts nicely with the Cathedral Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul with its Roman Corinthian-style columns and dome.
10.00: Jump off at the Benjamin Franklin Parkway stop. This broad, tree-shaded boulevard is lined with flags of the countries of the world. This is also the road to mecca for art lovers, home to the Barnes Foundation, the Rodin Museum and the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
10.30: Head inside the Barnes Foundation and submerge yourself in the world of the impressionists and post-impressionists. This vast and astonishing collection was gathered in the early 1900s by Albert Barnes. He spent the fortune he made as a pharmacist on pieces by Van Gogh, Cézanne, Matisse, Picasso, Renoir, Monet and Seurat before these titans of the art world became famous.
12.00: The works at the Barnes are only trumped by those at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. It’s like a treasure chest spilling over with more than 2,000 years’ worth of paintings, decorative art and sculptures from Asia, Europe and the Americas. The steep run of 72 steps leading up to the museum’s gargantuan entrance is a cultural icon of a different kind. Made famous in Sylvester Stallone’s Rocky movies, you’ll see many people trying to copy the character’s athletic sprint to their summit, and at the base of the ‘Rocky Steps’ is a statue of the infamous fictional boxer.
14.00: Head to Rittenhouse Square for a late lunch. Parc Brasserie is a good choice. It looks out on to the leafy square and serves salads, sandwiches, moules and steak frites. You’re now in the heart of the main shopping district, too. Along Chestnut and Walnut Streets you’ll find designer stores and high street names with almost everything cheaper than back home. Dedicated bargain hunters could instead hail a cab and head to Philadelphia Premium Outlets for up to 65% off regular prices on brands such as Calvin Klein and Kate Spade.
16.00: Swap retail therapy for naval history at the Independence Seaport Museum on the banks of the Delaware River. A great one for kids, there are plenty of interactive exhibits including a Second World War submarine and USS Olympia, the oldest steel warship in the country dating back to 1892.
18.00: End your day on a high with cocktails at XIX Bar. Located on the 19th floor of the Hyatt at Bellevue, if you visit between 5pm-7pm, Monday to Friday, you’ll find a happy-hour bargain to go with your view. Afterwards, make for the Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, which has a year-round calendar of opera, ballet, classical concerts, rock bands and plays.
