Meera Dattani tours verdant Vermont.
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It’s not hard to see why the von Trapps – yes, the real-life ones depicted in the movie The Sound of Music – settled in Vermont. From the balcony of the Trapp Family Lodge, still run by the family, the serene views over the Green Mountains have more than a whiff of Alpine Austria.
Verdant sums up Vermont – even the name originates from the French les vert monts or the green mountains. And there are few crowds to spoil the scenery. Vermont is the sixth-smallest US state by area and has the second-smallest population, behind Wyoming.
The only New England state not on the Atlantic Ocean, it borders New York State, New Hampshire, Massachusetts and the Canadian province, Quebec, and its highlights include the Green Mountain National Forest, Lake Champlain and a section of the 2,180-mile Appalachian National Scenic Trail.
The Hills are Alive
At the Trapp Family Lodge in the mountain town of Stowe in northern Vermont, it’s about more than The Sound of Music these days, although wall after wall of family photographs and weekly themed tours keep fans happy.
After leaving Austria in 1938, the family toured the US as a singing troupe before settling here in 1942. Initially built for visiting family and friends, the lodge evolved into a fully fledged resort, now run by Johannes, son of Baron and Maria von Trapp, his son Sam and daughter Kristina.
“We opened North America’s first commercial cross-country ski centre in 1968,” says Johannes. There are cycling, hiking and Nordic walking trails, too, plus a spa, tennis courts, bakery and mountain farm. They’re big on activities.
In fact, attempts to engage Sam in The Sound of Music trivia are mainly fruitless as he’s more enthusiastic about his pet project, the Trapp Brewery, successfully distracting me with a craft beer-tasting.
Stowe is an excellent base, home to ArborTrek Canopy Adventures – Vermont’s first zipline canopy tour – and Smugglers Notch State Park, which has miles of hiking trails snaking through its mountainous scenery.
When it comes to luxury accommodation, Stowe Mountain Lodge sits at the base of Vermont’s highest peak, Mount Mansfield, offering skiing in winter, riding in summer and spa treatments year-round.
On the Water
An abundance of natural beauty makes Vermont dream road trip territory. En route to the jewel in the state’s crown, Lake Champlain, we stop at lakeside university town Burlington. As the state’s most populous town, this is Vermont at its busiest – but it’s still the least populated largest town of any US state. The main drag, Church Street, sees independent shops ruling over chains and the lively waterfront has restaurants, boat tours and bike paths.
On Vermont’s western border, with the Adirondack mountains of New York State on the other side, Lake Champlain is a much loved spot. Accommodation-wise, the lakeside Basin Harbor Club is popular, with its lake-view rooms, golf course and activity programme.
For the wow factor, it’s hard to beat Seaplanes R Fun. Set up by Jason Grieff in 1998, his repurposed 1940s-1950s planes offer fantastic views, with a 30-minute trip for up to three passengers starting at £110. Basin Harbor is also handy for the Shelburne Museum’s extraordinary collection of Americana, including the majestic Ticonderoga steamboat, which once sailed on Lake Champlain. Like Loch Ness, Lake Champlain has its own mythical monster, Champ.
Buy Local
Heading south, we stop in Montpelier, the US’s smallest state capital (of course) with its impressive State House and good choice of diners and cafes. Most head this way for the town of Waterbury, home to the ever-popular Ben & Jerry’s factory, while Warren Falls’ tiered pools, one of many Vermont swimming holes, are perfect for a wild swim.
The driving never gets dull. Route 100 passes farmsteads, covered bridges and miles of wooded hillsides before turning off to pretty Woodstock, no relation to the festival. Here, mom-and-pop businesses thrive, from bookshops to restaurants, and the new 506 On The River hotel is a welcome addition. Nearby attractions include Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historical Park, Quechee Gorge and the famous ski resort Killington, hosting Vermont’s second-highest peak.
For shoppers, Manchester’s designer outlet shops, such as Michael Kors, J.Crew and Gymboree, will appeal. Unusually, it’s the male in our group who has the penchant for shopping – the girls make a beeline for Mrs Murphy’s Doughnuts. Manchester is also home to Lincoln family home Hildene, where Abraham’s son Robert Todd lived, and country sports store Orvis whose fly-fishing lessons prove fun if unproductive for this first-time fisherwoman.
Food is big business here, with a focus on local ingredients and fresh produce. Maple syrup usually comes up in conversation, although one local confesses “I can’t stand the stuff”. Vermont is the US’s biggest producer and you’ll find it in biscuits, cakes and cocktails.
Another speciality is Vermont Cheddar, a delicious crumbly cheese to rival any. Places to stock up include Plymouth Artisan Cheese Company and Vermont Country Store, the latter an attraction itself. As ‘purveyors of the practical and hard-to-find’, the intentionally cluttered store dating back to 1947 sells everything from vintage toys and old-fashioned sweets to cheese and maple syrup treats.
A State for all Seasons
As autumn beckons, the state’s fall foliage season lures leaf peepers to witness nature’s annual show of bold, bright yellows, oranges, reds and even the brilliant gold of the sugar maple. It’s an optimum time, but there are few bad times, apart from the height of winter – unless clients are here to ski – and the slushy mud season around April.
Clients typically fly in and out of Boston or New York with the likes of Virgin Atlantic and British Airways, but consider a twin-centre with Montreal across the border. Air Canada flies daily and Canadian Affair’s weekly flights operate May to October from Gatwick and Dublin.
Vermont certainly packs a punch, its hills alive with the sound of Jersey cows, maple syrup tappers, crunchy leaves and swishing skiers. It’s a state for all seasons.
