The city is so much more than a gateway to the Costa del Sol, finds Meera Dattani
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Most people who fly to Malaga leave immediately. They flock instead towards the Costa del Sol, perhaps west to Marbella or Torremolinos, east to Nerja or inland to the mountains. Yet Malaga itself is one of Spain’s most likeable cities, a compact town with beaches, museums, bars and shops in abundance, and friendly locals justifiably proud of their home town.
With the year-round popularity of the Costa del Sol, it is easy to add a short stay in Malaga. A 12-minute train ride from the airport, the birthplace of Picasso is culturally rich, has a spruced-up harbour and cruise terminal, city beaches and countless tapas bars.
The tourist office at Plaza de la Marina offers plenty of resources for city-breakers, such as free self-guided iPod tours, tickets for the hop-on hop-off Malaga tour bus and what’s on listings. When suggesting itineraries, remember that some museums close on Mondays. For Sunday visitors, highlight the ‘rastro’ market, which is a short bus ride away, for bargains and buzz.
Day One
09.00: Start with coffee and a spot of people-watching at Café Central on the main square, Plaza de la Constitucion. On the ground are bronze plaques that recreate newspaper front pages from December 7, 1978, when the Spanish constitution was approved.
10.00: Stroll eastwards through the historic centre and along Calle San Agustín to the Palacio de Buenavista. The impressive building is home to the Museo Picasso, which opened in 2003 to fulfil the artist’s wish that his work be exhibited in his home town. More than 200 pieces, from paintings to ceramics, showcase Picasso’s changing styles. Guided tours and audio guides are available. The museum is closed on Mondays.
12.30: Locals tend to ask visitors if they know why Malaga’s cathedral is known as La Manquita, or the ‘one-armed lady’ (pictured above), so tell customers the answer: misdirected funds meant the second tower was never added. However, the exterior, built between the 16th and 18th centuries, is exquisite.
13.30: Cross the main shopping street of Calle Larios and head to Atarazanas market. Once a shipyard for Malaga’s Moorish rulers, this fantastic market with a huge stained-glass window is where locals stock up on fruit, vegetables, olives, seafood and more. Combine the visit with a tapas lunch at one of the market bars.
15.00: Work off lunch with a walk along Malaga’s main thoroughfare, Alameda Principal, and through the palm-tree, fountain-filled botanical gardens. On Paseo del Parque are the architecturally interesting buildings of the Aduana (customs) and Ayuntamiento (town hall). Here, the harbour beckons. Muelle Uno’s (Pier One) strip of restaurants, bars and shops lead to the lighthouse, which marks the start of the city’s beaches beginning with Malagueta. On the return walk, swap the botanical gardens for the brilliantly designed El Palmeral de las Sorpresas promenade.16.30: Late afternoon is a good time to trek up to Castillo de Gibralfaro, Malaga’s 14-century castle, which is also accessible by tourist bus, local bus and taxi. The walk up is wonderful but the highlight is exploring the castle ramparts and enjoying views over the bullring, harbour and cathedral. Suggest a sunset drink on the terrace of the luxury hotel, Parador de Malaga Gibralfaro.
19.30: Do as the Spanish do with a bout of evening shopping on Calle Larios and the neighbouring streets of San Juan and Calle Nueva.
21.00: A tapas bar crawl is a Malaga must. Stroll through tiny Pasaje de Chinitas, off Plaza de la Constitucion, towards Wendy Gambas, a traditional seafood bar that does a fine line in prawns. For a nightcap, head to Bodega Antigua Casa de Guardia on Alameda Principal, a traditional wine bar dating back to 1840. Wine from the barrel includes the sherry-like seco.
Day Two
10.00: Book in advance for a hammam experience at the Hammam Al Andalus on Plaza de los Mártires. Through the tiny entrance is a fabulous complex of tiled rooms, plunge pools and hot and cold baths. Timed two-hour entries offer baths-only or baths-plus-massage options. Alternatively, suggest Malaga Bike Tours, whose daily 10am city tours leave from Plaza de la Marina.
12.00: The Carmen Thyssen museum is housed in the beautiful 16th-century Palacio de Villalón. Malaga’s most comprehensive art collection features four floors of old masters and evocative Andalucian landscapes. The museum is closed on Mondays.
14.00: Pass through Plaza de la Constitucion and along Calle Granada towards Plaza de la Merced, a lovely square that is home to Casa Natal, Picasso’s birthplace, and a statue of the artist. Enjoy a spot of lunch in Lechuga, which is renowned for its creative fusion-cuisine salads.
15.30: A short walk away is the Alcazaba (pictured below), Malaga’s mini-Alhambra. An 11th-century palace-fortress with terraced gardens and beautiful Moorish architecture, the city views from the upper terraces are stunning. Next to the fortress is the Roman amphitheatre, Teatro Romano.
17.30: Explore new Malaga via the neighbourhood of Soho, a triangle of streets between the Guadalmedina River, the port and Alameda Principal. At its western edge is CAC Malaga, the city’s contemporary arts centre with free exhibitions and an excellent bar and sushi restaurant Oleo. Soho is home to several new bars, restaurants, microbreweries, shops and colourful street graffiti.
20.00: Linger in Soho for dinner at Taberna La Antigua Malaga on Calle Trinidad Grund. The seafood taverna draws proudly on Malaga’s seafaring heritage with a beautifully designed fresco on one wall and a delicious seafood and fish menu.
22.00: Finish on a high in one of Malaga’s rooftop bars such as the Terraza Del Soho Bahia Hotel in Soho. Back in the old town, the Room Mate Larios offers DJ sets. For the best views, the poolside bar on the AC Palacio terrace is hard to beat.
Sample Packages
Cosmos
Offers three nights’ bed and breakfast at the Molina Lario from £325. The price is based on two sharing and includes flights from Gatwick, departing on May 4.
cosmosagents.co.uk/login
0843 227 0962
Cox & Kings
Offers three nights’ B&B at the Parador de Malaga Gibralfaro from £775, including BA flights and private transfers.
coxandkings.co.uk
020 7873 5000
Where to Stay
Save
Room Mate Lola
The Room Mate Lola is a 50-room boutique hotel in the city’s Soho district. Its rooms and lobby are the work of antique expert and interior designer Lorenzo Castillo. The hotel offers a street-view breakfast room and a chill-out reading area. Its sister property, the four-star Room Mate Larios, has a central location overlooking Plaza de la Constitucion, and features a roof terrace, as well as a range of rooms, suites and apartments.
Spend
Barceló Malaga
Direct access to Malaga’s main Maria Zambrano station gives design hotel Barceló Malaga its own USP. It boasts free Wi-Fi, a helter-skelter slide to the B-Lounge bar and award-winning El Andén restaurant serving Barceló Healthy Gourmet meals. The hotel is a 15-minute walk from the old town and has the Vialia mall and El Corte Ingles outlet store on its doorstep.
Splurge
Molina Lario
Two 19th-century buildings form part of this elegant four-star property, opposite the cathedral. The rooms and suites are stylish and contemporary, while the hotel offers an outdoor garden terrace. Best of all are the rooftop pool overlooking the city, eighth-floor Piscina Lounge late-night bar and terrace grill restaurant.
