Image Credit: Hansueli Krapf
Fuerteventura is one of the least developed of the Canary Islands, Meera Dattani discovers
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Cofete, a one-and-a-half-mile stretch of sand on Fuerteventura’s unspoilt southwest coast, is as wild as it gets. Backed by the 800m-high peaks of the Jandia peninsula, and with the mysterious-looking Villa Winter in the distance, the bird’s-eye views from the road are mouth-watering. About 45 minutes from the harbour town of Morro Jable, Cofete is one of the island’s many unforgettable natural sights.
Fuerteventura is the Canaries’ second-largest island, geologically the oldest and one of the least developed. The entire island has Unesco biosphere reserve status, from the cliffs of the Atlantic-battered west coast to the gentle sand dunes of the east, where visitors enjoy some of Europe’s longest beaches. The Moroccan coast lies 60 miles away, and a combination of low rainfall and cooling trade winds keep the climate near perfect.
While the west coast is undeniably gorgeous, with windswept Cofete and black-sand beach of Ajuy, the east coast has Fuerteventura’s most user-friendly beaches: long sandy stretches, secluded coves and quiet bays that lure – alongside those wanting to lounge – divers, snorkellers and watersports fans.
Surfers and kiteboarders especially enjoy the ‘windy isle’ during the autumn and winter. Shallower beaches make the island’s surf schools popular with beginners, while the two-mile lagoon of Playa Barca, part of Playa Sotavento on Costa Calma in the southeast, attracts walkers, sunbathers and surfers.
Carefully controlled tourism development has resulted in just three main tourist hubs – Corralejo in the north, Caleta de Fuste on the east coast and Jandia to the south – leaving much of the island with its original character and way of life mainly intact.
The often-overlooked capital Puerto Rosario has an open-air sculpture park, daily market, culture centre and seafront promenade, but Corralejo is the big hitter, with the greatest concentration of hotels, bars, restaurants and shops.
The old town still feels atmospheric and there is a good craft market at the Campanaro shopping centre on Thursday and Sunday mornings, but Corralejo’s must-see attraction is the Grandes Playa, seven miles of sand dunes that are part of the Natural Park of Corralejo.
A recommended day trip from Corralejo is Isla de los Lobos, a 15-minute ferry ride away. Behind cove beaches, the barren interior is spectacular, with its walking trails and a lighthouse. A protected natural area, sightings include dolphins and hammerhead sharks. Companies such as Mar y Mas offer diving, snorkelling and kayaking trips. Glass-bottomed boat cruises are also available.
West of Corralejo is the relatively undeveloped fishing village of Cotillo, with its old harbour, Fortaleza del Tostón fort and sunset views. A few miles away is the lighthouse, from which self-guided walking trails explore the lagoons and beaches.
Cotillo and Corralejo are both surfer favourites, while cyclists can pedal the scenic 15-mile trail between the two.Halfway along the east coast and just five miles from the airport is Caleta, which bustles with hotels, bars and restaurants. Nearby sights include the working salt pans of Salinas del Carmen and the starkly beautiful landscape and stone structures of La Atalayita at Pozo Negro, built by the Maho people 600 years ago.
Further south, Jandia’s resorts are a big seller. Families particularly like the beaches and proximity to Oasis Park, which has everything from camel safaris and play zones to Europe’s largest cactus garden. Day trips include Las Playitas’ unusual lighthouse Faro de la Entallada at the island’s closest point to Africa, the lighthouse at Punta de Jandia and the old town centre of Morro Jable.
Inland Fuerteventura is another world – one of volcanoes, caves, arid grasslands, lime kilns, sand dunes and the impressive Mount Tindaya (pictured above). The native aloe plant thrives and visitors will find aloe vera products at every turn.
For walkers, centuries-old paths offer views over dunes and mountains, and the chance to spot camels, donkeys or Barbary ground squirrels. Plans are afoot to create a 100-mile north-south walking trail. Birdwatchers will find a wealth of wildlife and there are plans to reintroduce loggerhead turtles to the west coast.
The former capital of Betancuria, reached on winding mountain roads via the Morro Velosa viewpoint, is a highlight. Home to Iglesia Santa Maria, one of the oldest churches in the Canaries, it also has an archaeological museum, the excellent Casa Santa Maria visitor centre and award-winning Casa Santa Maria restaurant.
Another jewel is the village of La Oliva, near Corralejo. Its manor house La Casa de los Coroneles (pictured below) was the former headquarters of local ‘colonels’ who ruled the island in the 18th century.
An excellent dramatised tour, The Colonels’ Route, on Tuesday and Friday mornings, involves character guides re-enacting the area’s history via a father-daughter dispute over her upcoming marriage. The tour also visits Casa Mane Art Centre and a traditional market.
It is not hard to find the ‘real’ Fuerteventura, with numerous family-run restaurants dishing up fresh seafood, sweet island tomatoes, majorero cheese and local speciality papas arrugadas (small wrinkled potatoes) with mojo picon (spicy garlicky sauce).
Tourism may be thriving, but nature, history and heritage are richer and more dominant than you might expect.
Sample Packages
Thomas Cook offers seven nights’ all-inclusive at the Suite Hotel Atlantis Fuerteventura Resort from £1,865 for a family of four based on a May 2 departure, with flights from Gatwick. Prices from Manchester start at £1,859.
thomascook.com
01733 224800
Pierre et Vacances offers seven nights’ self-catering from £419 for two in a studio and from £618 for a one-bedroom villa suite for four. Flights start at £328 from Stansted with Ryanair.
pierreetvacances.com
0870 026 7145
Seven nights at the Barceló Castillo Club with ClassicCollection Holidays starts at £3,259 on a half-board basis and £3,779 on an all-inclusive basis for bookings made before February 15. The price is based on two adults and two children sharing a Suite Club Premium room and includes easyJet flights from Gatwick on July 23 and private transfers.
classic-collection.co.uk
0800 008 7288
Tried & Tested: Fuerteventura hotels
Origo Mare, Lajares
A luxurious marble lobby welcomes guests to the new 12-hectare Origo Mare resort near Lajares, the latest venture from Pierres et Vacances. The accommodation includes 323 high-spec studios, three-bedroom villas and two Premium villas, all with garden and terrace, laid out in ‘clusters’ with a shared pool. Facilities include tennis, archery and petanque, plus the volcano-themed Crater Park waterpark with slides, wave pool and water tree. The resort can organise a wide range of activities including day trips, horse-riding, astronomy nights and fishing. Other facilities include an adults’ pool, kids’ clubs for ages three to 17, cooking/craft workshops, evening entertainment, a spa and mini-supermarket. Dining options include buffet restaurant Mauna Loa, the crater park’s Chiringuito Krakatoa and pool bar Etna.
origomarefuerteventura.com
Atlantis Fuerteventura Resort, Corralejo
With five pools, two kids’ pools, a Beach Club for watersports, kids’ clubs for four to 16-year-olds, new Teen Lounge, Atlantis Spa and activities from swim school to bike hire, this revamped all-inclusive, all-suite resort is a long-standing favourite. Dining options include the Gaudi buffet restaurant and two à la carte restaurants: the Rambutan, for Oriental fusion food, and traditional Spanish El Molino. Five bars and evening entertainment ensure lively nights. The over-16s Premium Club offers spacious suites in a separate complex with pool and lounge.
atlantisfuerteventuraresort.com
Barceló Castillo Club Premium, Caleta
Connected to Barceló Castillo Club, the seafront Barceló Castillo Club Premium has a lovely location by a marina, with 45 suites in a separate complex with a private pool. Premium advantages include personalised check-in and a separate buffet restaurant. Guests have access to the Barceló Castillo Club’s pools, kids’ clubs, entertainment and thalassotherapy centre. Although not part of Club Premium, the new ocean-view Junior Suites with private patio and hot tub and master/family suites are also worth considering.
barcelo.com
