Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board
Mary Novakovich is won over by Croatia’s capital
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48 Hours in Zagreb
Inspired more by Vienna and Budapest than its southern Slavic neighbours, lively Zagreb has a cafe culture that easily holds its own against its old imperial masters.
The European Union’s newest capital is often overshadowed by Croatia’s glittering Adriatic resorts, but its appealing restaurant and bar scene, architecture and culture make it an attractive city-break destination in its own right.
Divided into the medieval Gornji Grad (upper town) and the 19th-century Donji Grad (lower town), its centre is compact and easy to explore.
Zagreb is a city made for strolling, for meandering along the cobbled streets and following the example of the stylish locals in their quest for the perfect coffee and a spot of gossip.
Day One
Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board
09.00: Start off in Zagreb’s heart, Trg Bana Josipa Jelacica, the square that honours the 19th-century Croatian governor who rose up against the ruling Hungarians. Enjoy the morning bustle from the vantage point of Aida Cafe Vienna, preferably over one of their rich cakes. aida.hr
09.30: Wander around the corner and up the steps to Zagreb’s daily fruit and vegetable market, Dolac, a colourful collection of food stalls on the outdoor raised piazza. There is also an indoor market where you can taste some of Croatia’s prized cured meats such as prsut (prosciutto).
11.00: Take the incredibly cute 19th-century funicular – one of the shortest in the world at 217 feet – to the upper town. At the top is one of the most pleasant promenades in the city, Strossmayer Parade. Old-fashioned gas lamps light this tree-shaded walkway, with plenty of benches from which to catch views of the town below.
Come in the summer and stop for a drink in the cafes that spring up. Beside it is Lotrscak Tower, a 13th-century fortification that lets off a resounding cannon blast every day at noon. Climb its spiral staircase to the top for sweeping views of the city.
11.30: Come down to earth with a bump – and a lump in the throat – with a visit to the Museum of Broken Relationships, just a few metres away from the tower. It is a compelling collection of mementoes of lost loves – seemingly banal objects that pack a thought-provoking and wryly amusing punch.
Afterwards, walk a few minutes north to St Mark’s Square, where the unmistakable roof of St Mark’s Church glints in the sunlight. It’s a striking mosaic of the red, white and blue Croatian and Zagreb coats of arms that were added to the 13th-century church, and it is one of the city’s most eye-catching emblems. brokenships.com
13.00: Stop for a hearty lunch at the Restoran Lanterna na Dolcu on Opatovina street. Much of the food comes from the market and features plenty of grilled meats, plus gnocchi and risotto dishes. restoran.lanterna-zagreb.com
14.00: Zagreb’s cathedral had to be rebuilt after a devastating 1880 earthquake, and its towering twin steeples and neo-Gothic facade are as arresting as the gold statue of the Madonna standing guard outside. Inside is the tomb of controversial archbishop Alojzije Stepinac, who was tried for treason after the Second World War for colluding with the Nazis, but was beatified by Pope John Paul II.
15.00: Just behind the cathedral is Park Ribnjak, 10 acres of woods, parkland and exotic plants. The scent in the springtime is heavenly.
18.00: Head to the lively Tkalciceva, a cobbled street of pastel buildings with more than a dozen cafes and restaurants. Squeeze into the tiny Cica for a quick brandy, Croatia’s national drink.
20.00: While you’re in Tkalciceva, settle under the wooden ceilings in rustic Restaurant Agava for an imaginative menu that combines Croatian, Italian and Asian flavours. restaurant-agava.hr
Day Two
Image credit: Zagreb Tourist Board
09.00: Join the great and the good for morning coffee in the cafe of the Hotel Dubrovnik just off Trg Bana Josipa Jelacica. Visitors on a Saturday will notice a Zagreb ritual – the spica – being enacted from 10am till about 2pm around the corner on Bogoviceva street and Petar Preradovic square.
It is when the cafe-lined streets fill with locals sauntering along in their smartest clothes, stopping for a coffee now and then, but mainly just promenading. hotel-dubrovnik.hr
10.00: Check out the shops on Ilica, which is home to big European high street names, as well as Croatian labels. Look out for little Tomiceva street on the northern side. At number four is Take Me Home, a funky shop stocking an off-the-wall collection of creations by Croatian designers. takemehome.hr
12.00: Get a bird’s-eye view of the city from the 16th-floor observation deck of the Zagreb Eye. The skyscraper has been looming over Trg Bana Josipa Jelacica since 1959. From the top, where there is also a cafe, visitors get 360-degree views of Zagreb’s red rooftops and even as far as Mount Medvednica. zagrebeye.hr
13.00: Grab a baguette lunch at Kino Europa, the cafe in the 1920s cinema that hosts the annual Zagreb Film Festival. Brandy connoisseurs can sample some of the 30 varieties on offer. kinoeuropa.hr
14.00: Hop on a tram across the River Sava to the Museum of Contemporary Art, the largest in Croatia. This collection of more than 12,000 works tells the story of Croatian contemporary art over the decades – particularly during the communist era in Yugoslavia. msu.hr
17.00: Indulge in a decadent afternoon tea in the classy surroundings of the Esplanade 1925 bar in the Hotel Esplanade. Afterwards, explore the nearby botanical garden with its English-style arboretum. esplanade.hr
20.00: Old-fashioned Croatian grub is on the menu at unpretentious Tip-Top bistro – with low-key prices to match. Try the squid risotto or the steak in truffle sauce. gostionica-tiptop.hr
22.00: End the evening with a drink in the cosily jumbled interior of Bacchus Jazz Bar near the railway station, where there is live music at weekends.
Find out more:croatia.hr
Been to Zagreb? Try Belgrade
In December, Air Serbia resumed flights from Zagreb to Belgrade for the first time since 1991. This brings Serbia’s vibrant capital within easy reach – an alluring prospect, considering Belgrade has the most exciting nightlife in eastern Europe.
Belgrade sits at the confluence of two rivers, the Danube and the Sava, both of which are lined with scores of floating bars and restaurants. The city’s pedestrianised main artery, Knez Mihailova, throngs with people perusing the shops and relaxing in cafes with neoclassical facades
Centuries of history mingle in Kalemegdan Park, Belgrade’s green heart and home to an ancient fortress. There is even a city beach, Ada Ciganlija, tucked into a peninsula in the Sava.
Find out more at serbia.travel.
Where to stay
Save
Hotel Jägerhorn
In an enviable location near the bottom of the funicular, this romantic hotel first opened its doors in 1829. The charming and bright rooms are surprisingly quiet, considering the hotel is in the thick of the action. Doubles start at £55, which includes Wi-Fi and the rare treat of free private parking in the city centre.
hotel-jagerhorn.hr
Spend
DoubleTree by Hilton
This sleek addition to the Green Gold business district shows that contemporary doesn’t have to mean cold. Stylish rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows and leather furnishings. There are some gorgeous city views from the indoor pool and hot tub, while the hotel’s Oxbo Urban Bar & Grill specialises in steak. Double rooms start at £93.
doubletree.com
Splurge
Hotel Esplanade
Built in 1925 for Orient-Express passengers to rest in style, Zagreb’s grandest hotel has plenty of art deco touches in its plush rooms. The gracious living extends to the restaurants: the Mediterranean-inspired Zinfandel’s, French Bistro, outdoor Oleander Terrace and Esplanade 1925 Bar. Double rooms start at £100.
esplanade.hr
