Some things never change in the small Turkish village of Selimiye, finds Katie McGonagle
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This had better be worth it, I think to myself, as I reach the last – and steepest – stretch of the climb towards the ruins of a castle perched on the hillside above my hotel.
It’s rocky and somewhat treacherous underfoot, yet the lack of health and safety warning signs comes as a welcome surprise.
This is Turkey unpolished and unspoilt, about as far from the tourist hordes as you can get while still being on the same coastline.
Speaking of which, my efforts don’t go unrewarded.Reaching what’s left of the lofty castle, I can see why this spot (pictured above) was chosen as a lookout.
Where better to admire the broad, sweeping bay of Selimiye, flanked by gleaming blue waters (they don’t call this the Turquoise Coast for nothing) on one side and sloping, verdant hillsides on the other?
In fact, other than a few more gulets bobbing around on the water and a few more terracotta-roofed buildings on land, I get the sense this view might not be so different now than when the castle was built.
But this small village on the western edge of the Bozburun peninsula has more going for it than just great views.
Village People
When Selimiye is described as a ‘fishing village’, it’s not just brochure speak; this is a working village which makes its living from the sea – even if that has expanded to include tourists and yachting types as well as fishermen.
Yet it retains the feel of a small village, with swarthy old men sitting at outdoor cafes debating the issues of the day over cups of Turkish tea, and apron-clad women setting out trays of thyme and sage to dry in the sun.
There are trees laden with pomegranates, lemons and limes; backyards filled with the wooden skeletons of gulets being built or repaired; and each day is punctuated by the cry of the call to prayer.
There are a handful of tourist shops clustered along its short boardwalk, a nod to its growing popularity and the presence of a popular marina, which attracts a stream of yachts in summer – though they might just be coming to dine at Selimiye’s most popular restaurant, Sardunya. It’s easily the best fish restaurant in the area – a four out of five rating on TripAdvisor isn’t easily won – and one taste of its fried calamari proves those reviews are warranted.
Combine its melt-in-the-mouth mezze with people-watching over the marina and a cool glass of Villa Doluca white (Turkish wine, who knew?) and you have an ideal afternoon.
Exclusive Escapes guests staying in the area get one dinner at Sardunya as part of their package, and this is also the restaurant which provides the welcome plate of mezze and baklava for villa guests on arrival.
Walk this Way
If Selimiye itself isn’t far enough off the beaten track, the newly marked-out Carian Trail certainly will be. The trail is made up of goat tracks, ancient caravan routes and Roman roads knitted together into a 500-mile route passing through the Bozburun peninsula.
Unlike the short scrub and touristy villages found along the better-known Lycian Way, the Carian Trail is lined with tall pine trees, their needles crunching underfoot, and passes through villages where visitors rarely venture.
This will be the first full year of hiking along the route, which was only marked out recently by two Turks and Englishman Dean Livesley, who now leads a week-long trek for Exclusive Escapes.
The group tour departs April 25 and October 10 to enjoy prime walking weather (go in spring for more flowers, autumn for warmer waters), with at least six hours’ hiking per day, staying at Badem Tatil Ev (see Tried & Tested), from £1,750 including flights, transfers and day cruise.
Our hike offered just a taste, but it was enough to appreciate the crisp air as we climbed higher through the pine trees; to feel the cool spray from the waterfall at Turgut; and to hear the low-level buzz from the beehives lining the paths, tended to by nomadic beekeepers and producing almost a third of the world’s pine honey.
There’s no doubt Turkey boasts its fair share of mega-resorts attracting flocks of sun-seekers, but Selimiye isn’t one of them. And in my book, it’s all the better for it.
First-Class Flying: Inflite Jet Centre, Stansted
I’d forgotten how heavy my suitcase was. I’ve been in Turkey three days, but haven’t had to lift my bag since getting into a cab outside my London flat, which feels a very long time ago indeed.
That’s because I’ve been testing the premium service at the Inflite Jet private terminal in Stansted, where it was whipped out of the car and given to a baggage handler before I’d even settled up with the driver, and on arrival, it was in my private transfer car by the time I’d passed through the VIP immigration desk. Service indeed.
The private terminal has been handling Exclusive Escapes’ weekly summer charter to Dalaman for three years, although the family owned business has been operating for 25 years – and with Sir Alan Sugar, the West Ham football team and even the Queen’s corgis as regular passengers, I’m in good company.
Set 10 minutes from the main airport, this private building is like a lounge transplanted to a more convenient location – forget battling through check-in desks or security queues, passengers can park outside and sail through in minutes.
The lounge is split into two levels offering standard and premium service, with the latter enjoying champagne, additional refreshments and staff to check-in on their behalf. It’s worth noting that on returning to Stansted, guests arrive via the main terminal for security reasons, but are met by a private taxi to return to their vehicle.
This service is all about ease and convenience, so there’s no need to wait until clients get to Turkey to begin their holiday – it can start as soon as they reach the airport.Book it: Flights must be booked with accommodation; see Tried & Tested below.
Tried & Tested: Selimiye properties
Badem Tatil Ev
This is the hotel to sell to guests who want a taste of Turkish life without sacrificing home comforts. The 12-room boutique is a converted manor house in the hills overlooking Selimiye’s horseshoe-shaped bay, owned by a Turkish couple and serving up local, seasonal fare in its outdoor terrace restaurant.
Yet that homely feel is belied by its L’Occitane products, glamorous infinity pool and open-air massage hut, easy access to the hotel beach club and readily available Wi-Fi throughout – all lifting what would otherwise be a perfectly nice hideaway in the hills to an elegant property worthy of any luxury-loving traveller.
It’s a 10-minute walk to the village and has fairly steep steps, so it’s not one for mobility-challenged guests, but its friendly staff and easygoing atmosphere should make it a winner with everyone else.
Massi House
This is the supermodel of the villa world – it can’t fail to look good, no matter which angle it is viewed from. Its grey stone exterior gives way to a gorgeously modern interior, all blond wood floors, freestanding bathtubs and three tastefully decorated bedrooms on its upper floor, plus high ceilings, cool marble and a beautiful stone fireplace at the heart of the open plan living area downstairs.
That marble carries on to a beautiful terrace with views that will literally take your breath away, so stunning are its vistas over Selimiye.
There are two outdoor dining tables so guests can catch the sun at breakfast and dinner, a private pool and hardly any neighbours, so seclusion is guaranteed, but do warn clients with children of its steep driveway.
Book it: Exclusive Escapes offers seven nights’ bed and breakfast at Badem Tatil Ev from £800, including flights to Dalaman from the private terminal at Stansted, or with British Airways from Heathrow or Manchester, plus transfers and a day’s gulet cruise.
A week’s self catering at Massi House starts at £875 based on four sharing, with the same flight options, transfers, seven days’ car hire, a meal at Sardunya, private fishing boat cruise, a welcome hamper with mezze on arrival and maid service.
exclusiveescapes.co.uk
020 8605 3500
