Discover a small island community setting new standards for sustainability, just a stone’s throw from the popular resorts of the Algarve. Juliet Dennis reports
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The minute I set foot on Culatra, it was like stepping back in time. Life not only goes at a slower pace, it is quieter too, with no cars or paved roads, no hotels and not even a swimming pool in sight.
Around 1,000 residents – some 400 families – enjoy the peaceful atmosphere on this barrier island in the Algarve, known for its fresh oysters, unspoilt nature and sustainable way of life.
I visited with agents and tour operators from Aito, The Specialist Travel Association, on its annual ‘famference’, designed to seek out hidden gems in well-known destinations. Culatra was one such spot.
We boarded a small ferry in the coastal town of Olhão, part of the Ria Formosa Natural Park, not quite knowing what to expect – and arriving less than an hour later, I was struck by the open spaces and lack of buildings. Bar a few children who skipped past giggling, the island appeared deserted, though its sparse development is part of the charm.
Our tour guide offered a quick potted history: once just a stop-off for fishermen, a few shacks were built in the 1920s, before developing into a community that now works as a co-operative. The population aims to be completely self-sufficient, operating a circular economy – which relies on reusing, repairing and recycling existing materials rather than consuming more resources – by 2030.
She proudly pointed to a seahorse sculpture on the waterfront made completely from rubbish found in the sea.
The more I heard, the more intrigued I became by the simple way of life on Culatra. The island’s primary school has 20 children, and it boasts one library, one nurse, a heliport for emergencies, a social centre, three mini markets and eight restaurants. Each time a new baby is born, the community sets off fireworks to celebrate.
We visited the head of the co-operative, Silvia Padinha, who is celebrated for championing the island’s way of life. She invited us into her home like old friends to knock back a few oysters and delicious Portuguese wine in plastic beakers we were encouraged to keep and reuse.
We then headed off for a quick dip – and who needs a swimming pool when you have a lagoon all to yourself?
With no new development permitted, Culatra is purely a day-trip destination, and a pricey one at that – though a quarter of our tour cost was ploughed back into area. But a trip here offers a glimpse into how life could be and into a community trying its hardest to become sustainable. If you have clients who want to get away from it all, enjoy nature and wildlife, it’s perfect. I just hope they like oysters, too
Book it:
Sunvil offers seven nights at Pousada Convento de Tavira, a convent-turnedhotel on the mainland, from £1,765 based on two sharing a Superior Room, including flights from Gatwick to Faro and private transfers. An excursion to Culatra costs £189 for a minimum of two people.
sunvil.co.uk
Pictures: Juliet Dennis