All aboard a new cruise to the amazing Austral Islands

| December 14, 2023, 12:44

The Austral Islands may be remote, but they’re more than worth the journey, finds Jeannine Williamson on Aranui’s first voyage to French Polynesia’s southernmost archipelago

The drum beats grow steadily louder as our barge cuts through turquoise water towards burnished sand, shimmering in the morning sun. Women in a kaleidoscope of floral dresses sway to the intoxicating rhythm, and as we clamber down the gangplank a curious young girl stands on the beach filming our disembarkation on her phone.

With talk of overtourism in travel hotspots, this quiet scene encapsulates life in the Austral Islands, the southernmost archipelago in French Polynesia, more than 700 miles from Tahiti. It’s refreshing to visit a place where the locals – who welcome us with flower garlands and put beads around our necks when we leave – are so keen to see us. It’s hardly surprising.

Five of the seven Austral Islands (Rurutu, Rimatara, Tubuai, Rapa and Raivavae) are inhabited, and four have small airstrips with limited services. Until this year, the only ships calling at the isles were cargo vessels carrying vital supplies to the islanders.

Aranui Cruises introduced the first-ever sailings to the Australs in September, and I’m on the first one on the line’s only ship, the hybrid cruise/cargo vessel Aranui 5 that carries up to 254 passengers and 4,000 tonnes of freight.

This out-of-the-ordinary ship – the front half dominated by the cargo deck, and the aft with cabins, a pool, sunbathing decks, bars and lounges – usually sails from the Tahitian capital Papeete to the northeast Marquesas Islands, with itineraries that include the paradisiacal Bora Bora.

Through 2024 and 2025 it will also visit the Australs before Aranui’s new passenger-freighter Aranoa takes over the route in 2026.

Island vibes

After a stirring music-and-dance performance, we leave Papeete and arrive the following morning at the jade-green island of Rurutu. Our guide, Spencer, rather charmingly tells us to expect “flowery welcomes” wherever we go. On top of the garlands, we’re warmly greeted by Rurutu’s mayor and members of the 2,400-strong population.

Next up is an impressive display of rock-lifting, the local sport. After muscular men display their prowess, a woman in a bright yellow dress casually walks in and heaves a boulder, with seeming ease, onto her shoulder. We watch in awe. The infrastructure, or lack of it, is among the quirky delights on each of the five islands.

Several passengers catch a glimpse of the birds with jewel-bright plumage

With so few inhabitants it’s all hands to the pump, quite literally, wherever we land. School buses, also decked in foliage, and other local vehicles are called in to ferry us around. One day I get a lift in a fireman’s van and, at an ethereal cave on Rurutu, firemen line the rocky path to help us along the way.

Next day is Rimatara, shaped like a Tahitian pearl and with a necklace of reefs, where we walk through a cloud of traditional ‘purifying smoke’ as we step ashore. When we’re suitably cleansed, the ensuing welcome party includes an adorable terrier called Koha.

His job is to sniff out any rats that might arrive on ships and threaten the endangered indigenous lorikeets, for which the island is famous. None are found, and several passengers catch a glimpse of the birds with jewel-bright plumage soaring between the rainforest’s branches.

Wildlife excursions

After Tubuai, the most densely populated Austral island with 2,285 inhabitants, we visit contrasting Rapa which has just 467. Marking the southernmost point of our journey, 310 miles from the nearest island, this isolated outpost has no airport and is accessible only by sea. As a result, it’s the only Austral island on the itinerary with a quayside large enough for Aranui 5 to dock.

At other islands, the ship’s reassuringly strong stevedores assist their human cargo onto the barges that ferry us ashore. Some passengers head to the island’s craft shop to buy woven hats, bags, jewellery and Polynesian head garlands.

I’m perched on the rim of a submerged volcanic crater, rewarded for my legwork with spectacular views

I join others on the stiff hike to one of the high rocky forts, on clifftop peaks that once served as ancient lookouts. (The day before, thoughtful islanders had cleared the path to the fort to make it easier for us.)

An hour later I’m perched on the rim of a submerged volcanic crater, rewarded for my legwork with spectacular views over the island. In addition to free excursions, there’s the chance to join optional extra trips.

Between August and October, humpback whales arrive in Rurutu to mate and give birth in the crystal-clear waters, and the £130 whale-watching snorkel expedition afforded lucky passengers close-up views of these gentle mammals with their offspring.

Inside the Aranui 5

Back on board, Aranui 5 is a comfortable and easy-going ship where passengers can visit the bridge. And when they are off-duty, the captain, officers and crew hang out in the bar.

The various activities on offer immerse clients in the local culture, including dance and language classes, ukulele lessons and cookery demonstrations. And there is always plenty to catch up on with other passengers at the convivial daily happy hour.

There is a long history of tattoos in French Polynesia and most of the ship’s crew have body art, made up of intricate geometric patterns that have symbolic and personal meanings.

Restaurant server Moana is also Aranui’s skilled tattoo artist, and, along with memories to last a lifetime, several passengers returned home with a skin art souvenir of this incredible voyage.

Alternative itinerary

The Marquesas Islands

Aranui is the longest-serving line operating in French Polynesia. It was established almost 70 years ago, and in 2024 will celebrate the 40th anniversary of taking travellers to the Marquesas. For any clients with mobility issues, recommend Aranui’s Marquesas sailing.

While all the Austral islands, aside from Rapa, must be reached by barge, most islands in the Marquesas have harbours where passengers can step straight off the ship. Aranui’s traditional Marquesas Islands itinerary takes in all six inhabited islands in the Marquesas – Nuku Hiva, Ua Huka, Ua Pou, Hiva Oa, Fatu Hiva and Tahuata – and while crew and islanders load and unload cargo, passengers embark on excursions at each destination.

The ship visits other islands on the way and, depending on the sailing date, these might include the flora and fauna-rich island of Kauehi or fortress-like island of Makatea. As the itinerary is planned around the cargo operation, passengers can expect plenty of time in each destination and the opportunity to explore independently.

Selling tips

This unique itinerary is the only cruise that visits all of the inhabited Austral Islands.
It’s an authentic French Polynesian experience on a ship that is predominantly crewed by local islanders.
Recommend this sailing to active, adventurous clients as an alternative to far-flung land-based expeditions.
Suggest this one-of-a-kind vessel to customers who aren’t mainstream cruise clients.
Highlight options for culture-rich shore tours taking in traditional art, crafts, sports and spiritual ceremonies.

Aranui – need to know

Aranui can be booked through operators including Turquoise Holidays and Audley Travel.
In 2022 the line was awarded Green Marine Europe certification for its commitment to initiatives to reduce its environmental impact.
Life on Aranui 5 is relaxed, with no dress code. Pack comfortable walking shoes and clothes suited to the climate. Expect to see crew dressed in their own hats, colourful garlands and boar tusk necklaces.
Full details are yet to be revealed about new Aranui vessel Aranoa. It is expected to be slighter smaller than Aranui 5 and will have stabilisers to provide smoother sailings to the Austral Islands.
Aranui offers trade support via individual or group training webinars and sales materials including factsheets, brochures, photos and videos. To arrange training, email Stephanie Mages: stephanie@vaima-islands.com

Book it

Aranui’s 10-night Austral Islands round-trip Tahiti cruise is priced from £4,527, departing on March 30, 2024. The cruise-only price includes all meals, wine and drinks with lunch and dinner, excursions, entertainment and Wi-Fi.
aranui.com