Underwater adventure takes desert by storm

Desert diving by Teresa Machan

Underwater adventure takes desert by storm

Canyon Reef rated in top 10 Red Sea sites

THERE’S something unique about surfacing from a dive as a convoy of bedouins on camels pass the Sinai mountains in a flash of colour en route to a camel race.

For those used to diving in tropical Asian climes, the Maldives or the Bahamas, the Red Sea offers a new experience long before you go underwater.

I had arrived in Dahab, 60 miles north of Sharm el Sheik, where I was met by Dave of the Desert, aka Dave Elgin, founder of Reef 2000 Divers. The dive centre and adjoining Bedouin Moon hotel are located at the foot of the Sinai desert, under a mile from where the road peters out into a dust track.

Dahab’s diving is shore based, and involves piling into an open-sided jeep, dive gear in tow, and hurtling through the desert with an expert driver at the wheel to a choice dive site within wading distance of the shore.

Shore diving, according to Elgin, makes better divers. “When you are accessing sites via shallow reef tables and are using the land, rather than a boat as a base, you become much more aware of what you’re dealing with.”

Our spot was Canyon Reef. Its location, depth and beauty rates it among the Red Sea’s top ten dives. Directly above the canyon, at a depth of around 15 metres, is what’s known as the fish bowl, a bee’s honeypot equivalent for fish.

After a bone-juddering three-mile drive, Canyon Reef came into view, clearly visible where the bottle blue sea melted into a palette of luminous hues of green and turquoise.

The impressive Sinai, despite meeting the shore, offered no shade in which to gear up in the 35-degree heat. I was tempted to abandon the dive and fling myself panting like a thirsty dog into the transparent lagoon pool. But relief came soon enough. We snorkelled through coral gardens and entered the reef via a break in the lagoon.

Dahab’s shallow reefs are incredibly lively, attracting swarms of brightly coloured juvenile fish. As we approached the canyon, a billion blue fuselliers collided with a cloud of orange jewel fairies.

The canyon itself, described as a large room full of holes and cracks of light, is where advanced divers and gutsy open water divers get to show off, by swimming between its open-ended winding vertical walls.

The diver’s expunged air, meanwhile, permeates the coral canyon roof to form a silvery curtain of beaded bubbles resembling liquid mercury – much to the delight of first-time Canyon divers hovering above.

The canyon visited, we had sufficient air to swim along the reef wall, marvelling at the drop-off.

Then it was back through the coral gardens and up in time to catch sight of eight camels trekking though the shimmering desert heat.

Fish frenzy: Dahab’s shallow reefs ensure a lively dive

Handy hints

Tips for desert diving

&#42 Dehydration is common and diving plays a part due to the dry air in the tank. Start a water-drinking regime immediately you arrive. The recommended daily intake for divers is four to six large bottles, or 36 glasses.

&#42 Add more salt to your food to retain natural salinity levels and buy rehydration salts before you go.

&#42 Dive only with professional guides who know the desert and the dive sites. While the Red Sea is warm and comfortable to dive, it also has strong currents in places and spectacularly steep drop-offs.

&#42 Gear up in the shade wherever possible and if there is none, avoid overheating by cooling off in the sea. Don your wetsuit last.

&#42 Cover all exposed areas with sun cream – the desert sun can still burn you underwater.

&#42 Guided dives with Reef 2000 start at $25 (with own gear) and packages range from $60 for a one-day package of three dives, including one night dive, to $350 for a 10-day package. Professional Association of Diving Instructors courses start at $310 for a four/five-day course.

Walk on: watch out for camel convoys passing the dive site