Sin and tonic

Montréal by Matthew Hampton

Maths has never been my strong point, but even I’ve mastered the art of paying for drinks in a bar. Or so I thought.

“You forgot the 15%!” the bar lady scoffed as I handed over my cash. Suitably cowed, I forked out some extra change and asked if she could work out the correct price, which she grudgingly did.

My first experience of Montréal’s French charm wasn’t a great one, but it’s what makes it one of the most distinctive cities in North America – irreverent, fun-loving, ruled by its heart and fiercely proud of it. No-one’s going to tell you to have a nice day, and it’s better for it.

Although French is the primary influence, Montréal is a melting pot and has long benefited from its multi-ethnic community. On the city’s flag, the French fleur d’lys, English rose, Irish shamrock and Scottish thistle represent the first settlers, and – so it’s said – the fact Montrealers always enjoy good wine, good beer, good gin and good scotch.

Tourisme Montréal manager Marc-André Gemme said: “It has always been Canada’s sin city – a place where you can celebrate life. We never hesitate to close down whole blocks just so we can hold a great party.”

Indeed not. The Jazz Festival in June and Just for Laughs Comedy Festival in July are just two home-grown events that are among the best-known of their type in the world.

Cosmopolitan

Montréal has come a long way since its days as a fur trading post on Mount Royal. After shipping and railway lines brought prosperity in the 18th century, it became Canada’s cultural and financial hub, and in the early 20th century saw another influx of immigrants from Europe, hence the cosmopolitan feel. Along the cobbled streets of its old town, where the French colonial style buildings dominate, it’s sometimes hard to believe you’re in North America.

Nightlife

Montréal’s nightlife also has its roots in the city’s chequered history. While boozing was banned over the border in the US, in the prohibition-era ‘Sin City’ was a hive of drinking, gambling and prostitution. It’s cleaned up its act today, but with bars staying open until 3am, it still boasts the longest licensing hours in Canada.

Try Crescent Street for pubs, bars and clubs that, quite literally, rock. A random sample of Karaoke bar tunes on my visit included: Bohemian Rhapsody by Queen; Living on a Prayer by Bon Jovi and American Badass by Kid Rock. But from the country that gave the world Celine Dion, things could have been much worse.

Travelpack product director Peter Allen noted that clients are often surprised by the city’s joie de vivre. Weekend packages, he added, are selling particularly well, even in winter.

“For some reason, people expect Canada to be a bit 1970s, but it’s not. Montréal is very cosmopolitan; it’s got great bars and comedy clubs. People are finally getting over the fact it’s French,” he said.

Eating out

Bars are only the half of it of course; for a more refined time, try the restaurants of old Montréal – French cuisine is a speciality, but again, diversity rules and you’re just as likely to find yourself tucking into Thai fishcakes as moules marinere.

Montréal loses none of its steamy side out on its shopping streets. Sex and shopping collide on Rue St Catherine – North America’s longest shopping street – where department stores and pavement cafés sit side by side with strip clubs.

Sin City may be a bit too sensational a name, but Montréal is certainly saucy.

High life: Montréal is a mix of styles and cultures

Sin and tonic

City makes a point of living the high life