| Picture: Image Bank |
EVER since I got engaged, there’s been a lot of fuss about
my wedding dress. Should it be simple and elegant, or should I go
for a traditional meringue and veil? What about something totally
different? Everyone, it seems, has an opinion.
But I should count myself lucky I don’t live in Zinacantán
in the state of Chiapas, Mexico. The young women in this tiny
village, high up in the mountains by the Guatemalan border, have to
go through a huge rigmarole when it comes to dressing up for their
big day.
Their wedding outfits consist of layer upon layer of brightly
coloured, painstakingly hand-embroidered clothes. Beautiful though
the material is, much of the outfit is made of wool and, at 30C in
the shade, it soon gets hot, heavy and uncomfortable.
How do I know? Because, like every visitor to Zinacantán, I
got the chance to don the region’s traditional wedding dress during
a half-day village tour designed to give tourists a taste of ‘the
real Mexico’.
Other delights in our quest for the real Mexico included
sampling authentic tortillas and downing a shot of the local tipple
– a highly potent sugarcane liquor called ‘posh’.
The tortillas, filled with sour cheese, were cooked by a local
in her simple kitchen as we all crowded round and watched. Small,
thick and with a smoky corn taste, these tortillas were nothing
like the sort I’ve eaten in commercial Tex Mex restaurants in the
UK.
Nor was there anything ‘posh’ about the local firewater. But,
after our bone-shaking four-hour journey into the highlands of
Zinacantán, it certainly jolted the senses.
Zinacantán and the surrounding villages are difficult to
reach, but a decade ago visitors wouldn’t have got there at all.
Several parts of the state became no-go areas when the Zapatista
National Liberation Army declared war on the government to get
better living conditions and rights for indigenous Indians. At
least 150 people were killed in clashes.
But the Mexico Tourist Board is keen to point out that Chiapas
has been safe for the past 10 years, and is pushing the region as
an alternative to Mexico’s traditional package holidays. The
state’s ancient Mayan culture and geographical attractions will be
a key focus at World Travel Market in November.
Regional director for Europe Manuel Diaz-Cebrian said:
“Ecotourism and heritage are key to Mexico’s tourism market and
Chiapas incorporates both these elements. With its colonial towns
and Mayan ruins, travellers can experience the true roots of
Mexico.”
Chiapas is now included in several specialist operators’
programmes, including Cox and Kings, Journey Latin America, Trips
Worldwide and Explore Worldwide, and demand for the ‘alternative
Mexico’ is rising.
Cox and Kings reports sales of its Highlights of Mexico Tour,
which includes Chiapas, have increased by 25% in the last year.
Meanwhile, Explore Worldwide features Chiapas in its Family
Adventure brochure. Product manager Stuart Whittington said:
“There’s currently a huge demand for family holidays with a
difference. For kids reading adventure stories about lost worlds,
Chiapas really brings it alive.”
However, there are some strict protocols tourists must adhere
to. In the village of San Juan Chamula, a few miles from
Zinacantán, photographing the indigenous people taking part in
ancient rituals at the church of Templo de San Juan is strictly
prohibited. Ignore the request at your peril – rumour has it
one thoughtless US tourist was hauled in to the local police
station and severely reprimanded for doing so.
Trips Worldwide product manager John Faithful said: “Operators
should brief visitors on what to expect and how to behave when
visiting such places.”
Photos they may not like, but the people of San Juan Chamula
have a healthy regard for one of the strongest symbols of
globalisation, Coca-Cola, which worshippers drink to bring on a
good burp in order to expel evil spirits. Traditionally, black corn
juice was used, but now Coca-Cola is easier to get hold of –
even four hours up a mountain.
In my opinion, visitors wanting a taste of authentic Mexico
definitely get ‘the real thing’ in Chiapas.
