It’s almost midnight and we’re paddling our
sea kayaks into a secret lagoon. Resting on our laps are some
decorative Thai offerings we prepared ourselves, made from banana
root, leaves and orchids, and finished with candles and incense
sticks, and hundreds of yellow flower petals. We light our
offerings and release them into the water where they float away
– symbolically taking with them our confessions, dreams,
worries and wishes.
“This traditional Loykratong ceremony is like making a fresh
start,” said John Gray. Affectionately nicknamed John ‘cave
man’ Gray, he set up the John Gray SeaCanoe company in 1983.
A highly respected environmentalist, Gray trains locals –
many of them displaced fishermen – to guide visitors around
Thailand’s limestone karst islands, while drawing on their
knowledge of the sea and coast. He’s also keen to point out:
“A kayak across the water leaves no trace.”
We were about 500 miles south of Bangkok in the coastal province
of Krabi. The destination is an ideal starting point from which to
explore the southern islands and a good launch point for the
numerous soft-adventure activities on offer here. It has gained a
reputation in recent years as a mecca for climbers and the
beach-side resort of Rayavadee – a short speed boat ride from
Krabi town – is a popular spot with its limestone cliffs,
coconut groves, tropical forests and white sandy beaches stretching
into the Andaman Sea. The Dusit Rayavadee hotel is also a favourite
with honeymooners.
The rock here is part of the world’s largest coral reef
system, stretching from China down to Papua New Guinea. The
climbing routes – over 650 – are all bolted sport
climbing routes, and not particularly tough, and it would be a
shame to see these spectacular cliffs without having a go at
climbing them.
Local outfit King Climbers was established over 10 years ago and
has an excellent safety record. The three most popular courses are
the half-day, one-day and three-day – suitable for all levels
of ability. “It doesn’t matter how old or young, unfit or
unco-ordinated climbers are, our instructors will find something
they enjoy climbing,” said a spokesperson.
Sea kayaking is a little less energetic. It also offers access
to otherwise inaccessible places and, as well as being
environmentally friendly, is a surreal alternative for those keen
to explore the southern Thai islands. We meandered our way around
the vast limestone cliffs rising from the sea like stone
sculptures, in places squeezing through the gnarled, intertwined
vegetation through which the sun filters in dramatic beams of
light.
The further we paddled the more was revealed: water filled
caves, hidden lagoons, tranquil mangrove swamps and a vast range of
exotic fauna. A monitor lizard swam out of the water to climb a
vertical cliff to our right. As one of our group reached up to
admire the stalactites Gray reminded us not to touch anything.
“Even the grease from our hands will affect the fragile ecosystem,”
he said.
Knowing exactly where you’ve been and where you’re
going when you’re with Gray is not easy. He guards his secret
groves and coves so that they remain quiet and unspoilt. When
pressed on the subject, he would only volunteer that this magical
area he had brought us to was within a 12 mile radius of Krabi.
Back on board the main excursion boat, the kayaks were loaded on
deck and we dined on a superb Thai lunch. By the end of our day
– including our night-time excursion – we’d seen
a huge amount, but Gray recommends longer if clients are to
appreciate fully the spectacular waterscape and, of course, the
culture of the people.
