Ethiopia can trace its religious roots back to the times of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, and is crammed with spectacular ancient churches, monasteries and ruins.
Its sweeping plains and majestic mountains are breathtaking, and many rural tribes exist much as they have done for generations. In all, Ethiopia is a far cry from the war-torn country ravaged by famine that much of the West perceives it as.
While Foreign Office warnings of terrorist activity and dissident unrest along some borders must be heeded, it does not warn against travelling the historic route, running across the north, roughly from Axum to Bahir Dar.
Ethiopia is a destination for discerning clients seeking history, culture, birdlife and something different. It’s not for young children. Festival times are from December until the end of January.
Key resorts
Addis Ababa
Ethiopia’s capital, just 15 minutes’ drive from Bole international airport, bustles with cattle, goats and remnants of communist rule. Since 1992 a democratic government has promoted free enterprise and swanky hotels averaging $50 a night are being built.
A day or two in Addis is enough to take in the markets, and the former palace of the mostly revered Emperor Haile Selassie. The place offers valuable insight into Ethiopia’s magnificent history.
Zege Peninsula
Advise first-time visitors to stick to the north of the country. Fly to Bahir Dar then transfer to the Kuriftu Beach Resort. A boat trip leads to the 13th century monastery of Ura Kidane Mihret – the most famous of the Zege peninsula monasteries with priceless wall paintings, crowns and crosses.
It’s a bit of hike up a rocky path, but nothing too arduous. Another mountainous hike leads to the Blue Nile falls. More fascinating, though, is the rural village you pass through, where wily kids persistently peddle their wares.
Gondar
Gondar was once the royal capital of Ethiopia and its former emperor, Fasilides, left a trail of impressive castles and churches. Don’t miss the Debre Berhan Selassie church – a UNESCO world heritage site.
Lalibela
Literally meaning eat honey, Lalibela is a definite highlight. It hosts many religious ceremonies and festivals and its rock-hewn churches, some dating back to as early as 800AD, cannot fail to impress. They still are active places of worship.
Axum
A deeply religious city, Axum is the place where Christianity arrived in the 4th century. The most impressive sights are the ruins of Queen Sheba’s palace, Stelae Park – a burial ground for important royals, St Mary’s Church and the nearby Sanctuary Chapel, which houses the ancient Ark of the Covenant. The Axum museum holds ancient treasures beyond belief.
Accommodation
The more adventurous could try local accommodation, but Western appetites are more likely to be assuaged by the fast-growing Kuriftu chain and, in Addis Ababa, by the new Intercontinental Addis, Sheraton and soon to appear Ibis.
Kuriftu Beach Resort on Lake Tana, teeming with birdlife and hippos, is almost completed and mirrors the original blueprint Kuriftu Resort and Spa, 31 miles from Addis. It is a showcase for local craftsman and sets high hotel standards. A double room costs about $140 a night in a stone-built lodge.
There is only one hotel in Gondar worth staying at, the state-run Goha Hotel. It badly needs a handy man, but with such a magnificent mountain-top terrace and staff you can forgive a dodgy shower and limited hot water.
Likewise its sister, the Roha Hotel in Lalibela, is slightly better run, but the food needs attention. More attractive is the new, ultra-modern Mountain View Hotel, carved out of the hillside and with excellent rooms, with balconies, for about $50 for a double per night. A massive roof terrace overlooks stunning valley views.
Itineraries
Five days
Spend the first day in Addis Ababa taking in the market and the former palace of Emperor Haile Selassie. Fly to Lalibela for two nights and visit the ancient churches, including Beta Medhane Alem, Bete Golgotha and Bete Giorgis. Fly back to Addis and transfer to the Kuriftu Resort and Spa 31 miles away. Transfer to Bole airport.
10 days
Spend the first two days and nights in Addis Ababa taking more time to visit the former palace and markets as above. Fly to Bahir Dar and transfer to the Kuriftu Beach Resort on Lake Tana. Spend three nights there.
Drive to Gondar around Lake Tana (three to four hours) and stay overnight. Take a late flight the next day to Lalibela for two nights. Fly to Axum for two days. Fly back to Addis Ababa and transfer to Kurifta Resort and Spa for two nights. Transfer to Bole airport to fly home.
Staying longer
Consider visiting southern Ethiopia and parts of the Great Rift Valley. Ethiopia is ideal for a two- or three-stop cross-Africa trip of a lifetime, taking in Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa for diverse experiences.
Fact file
Getting there
- Airlines: Ethiopian Airlines, KLM, Emirates, Kenya Airways, Turkish Airways, British Airways
- Domestic flights: Ethiopian Airlines
- Tour operators: Steppes Travel Group, World Challenge Expeditions, Footloose Adventure, Exodus
- Visa: Yes, but you can get one on arrival at Addis Ababa airport
Getting by
- Currency: Ethiopian Birr
- Vaccinations: Typhoid, yellow fever (certificate is an entry requirement), tetanus, hepatitis A, anti-malaria medication, diphtheria and rabies
- Language: There are 83 languages, with 200 dialects, but English is widely spoken
Weather and geography
- Topography: In the north, some 25 mountains have peaks rising over 4,000 metres. The 900-mile-long Blue Nile, runs from Lake Tana to the White Nile at Khartoum, Sudan
- Weather: Best time to visit is September to January. The dry season is October to May; the rainy season from June to September.
Top tips
- Don’t drink the water
- Food is fairly spicy
- Internal flights are rarely more than one hour
- Take a torch to deal with electricity cuts
- Take comfortable walking shoes and clothes
- Always hire a guide and tip them between $5 and $10 a day. Try Adonay Ethiopia Travel for superb service (email adonaytour@ethionet.et)
- Western currency goes a long way when tipping and haggling
- Haggle hard when buying anything – Ethiopians are tough on price
- Pack a light cardigan for breezy evenings
- Don’t expect to see big game. There’s little left in the north, but the birdlife is stunning
- Cover bare shoulders with a shawl for church visits and religious holidays; avoid short skirts
Sample product
Steppes Travel offers a 16-day driving tour of the northern historic route, including Axum, Tigrae and Lalibela, the palaces of Gondar, the Simien Mountains, Bahir Dar. Prices lead in at £3,800 per person, including business class flights on Ethiopian Airlines and guided tours in four-wheel drive vehicles. (01285 880980, steppestravel.co.uk)
Footloose Adventure Travel offers tailor-made 12-day guided tours of the historic northern cities of Ethiopia, taking in Addis Ababa, Axum, Lalibela, Gondar, and the Blue Nile Falls, near Bahir Dar, and Lake Tana. Private daily departures from September to May cost from £1,890 per person. (01943 604030, footlooseadventure.co.uk)
