After waiting three days for the seas to be calm enough for the ferry to resume services from Cape Town to Robben Island, I wished I hadn’t bothered. The catamaran was rotating at such an angle I thought we would surely capsize and, like the unfortunate prisoners who managed to escape the Alcatraz of South Africa in 1820, drown at sea.
The ocean between Robben Island and Cape Town is renown as one of the roughest in the world. Yet despite my unfortunate inclination towards sea sickness, I was determined to experience one of Cape Town’s most visited attractions – Robben Island, the prison where Nelson Mandela and fellow anti-apartheid protesters were incarcerated for many years.
While the journey to Robben Island is unpleasant, the tour around the island can hardly be called enjoyable.
Listening to former political prisoners talk of the hardships they were forced to endure is not pleasant, yet the tour is undoubtedly a must do. Robben Island stopped operating as a prison in 1996 and opened its doors to the public the following year. Since then countless visitors have paid £10 to go where few people chose to go during the apartheid years.
Feeling decidedly ill, it was with great displeasure that I was told to board one of the dilapidated buses, used to transport prisoners over 30 years ago. Crammed full with fellow travellers from all different cultures, we listened as our first guide was introduced.
“My name is 60/63 because I was a political prisoner during these years,” said Sideeq Levy. “During this time many atrocities happened in this hell hole. But the latest buzz word in South Africa is reconciliation and we are working hand in hand with ex-wardens today on the island.”
The bus is silent and sombre as we pull up at the quarry where we are told prisoners were forced to do hard labour.
We’re then introduced to another former political prisoner, Lionel Davis, who served a seven-year sentence from 1964-1971.
He takes us into the solitary confinement section. “Political prisoners were brought to Robben Island by boat in chains and given an ID card describing what they were sentenced for, how long they had to serve, their religion and a thumb print.
“They left their personal belongings and were given a prison uniform – different clothing according to their colour classification. For example Africans were issued sandals while Indians were also given socks. None of the political prisoners were given underwear until the ’80s.”
Davis leads us through to a courtyard. It’s a sunny day but there is a chill in the air. There are some black and white photographs of former prisoners. A shutter of a cell slams loudly – the only thing that distracts our attention from the gripping story.
We are sitting next to the isolation section. Here 30 political prisoners, such as Mandela and Davis himself were held.
Davis describes how he played and walked in this courtyard to keep spirits high, despite incredible hardships.
“In ’62 the first political prisoners were brought to Robben island and experienced exceptionally hard times. When I came in ’64 things were still bad. We were forced to do hard labour in the quarry. We could only write and receive one letter every six months and have one visit every six months from one member of our family, but not children.”
However, Davis does not seem to be bitter. “It’s not easy to forget but it is easy to forgive,” he said, even after describing some of the horrific punishments carried out.
Davis then explains how hunger strikes and efforts by organisations such as the United Nations, Amnesty International and the Red Cross improved conditions.
To illustrate the changes he takes us inside the solitary confinement building to inspect the 30 individual isolation cells.
Each one is set out to tell a story and illustrate the gradual improvements in conditions over time. The first cell for example has just one mat and three blankets, whereas one nearby has a bed, a comfort which only came to prisoners arriving in ’79.
Another cell features a pile of books, while another further down the row has board games. “The first real change came in ’66 when we were allowed to study,” says Davis. “But they still made it difficult for us as the money had to come from your family and be paid in cash.”
In ’78, prisoners could listen to pre-recorded music and censored radio news, while in 1980 censored newspapers could be distributed. By ’89 prisoners had TVs .
“But the biggest change which took place was in the hearts and minds of the political prisoners,” stresses Davis. “We all came from different cultures, spoke different languages but learnt to share food, tolerance and speak each other’s languages until we became united.”
Cell number five draws the most interest. It was where President Mandela’s was imprisoned. Davis tells us how Mandela began writing his autobiography The Long Walk to Freedom in ’74 and how it was later smuggled to London for publication.
He summed up visitors response to the island: “People don’t go away feeling down, they go away feeling elated, with a positive feeling that we are all contributing to a better society,” he says.
Robben Island
What is it: an island located near Cape Town historically used as a sea-faring base, hospital, mental asylum, leper colony, military base and prison incarcerating famous people such as Nelson Mandela and fellow members of the African National Congress members. The prison closed at the end of 1996 and the island became a National Monument and Museum opening its doors to the public in 1997.
Cost: £10 for a 3hr 30mins tour which includes 30mins ferry crossing to the island and tour guide.
How to book: many companies offer boat trips around the island, but only Makana, is allowed to transport passengers to the island for organised tours of the prison. The Makana is a high-speed catamaran. For bookings call 00-27-21 419 1300; fax 00-27-21 419 1057; e-mail robben is@netactive.co.za
When to go:the Makana runs hourly from 8am every day of the week. However, seas can be very rough so it is best to visit in summer or when there is calm weather.
After waiting three days for the seas to be calm enough for the ferry to resume services from Cape Town to Robben Island, I wished I hadn’t bothered. The catamaran was rotating at such an angle I thought we would surely capsize and, like the unfortunate prisoners who managed to escape the Alcatraz of South Africa in 1820, drown at sea.
The ocean between Robben Island and Cape Town is renown as one of the roughest in the world. Yet despite my unfortunate inclination towards sea sickness, I was determined to experience one of Cape Town’s most visited attractions – Robben Island, the prison where Nelson Mandela and fellow anti-apartheid protesters were incarcerated for many years.
While the journey to Robben Island is unpleasant, the tour around the island can hardly be called enjoyable.
Listening to former political prisoners talk of the hardships they were forced to endure is not pleasant, yet the tour is undoubtedly a must do. Robben Island stopped operating as a prison in 1996 and opened its doors to the public the following year. Since then countless visitors have paid £10 to go where few people chose to go during the apartheid years.
Feeling decidedly ill, it was with great displeasure that I was told to board one of the dilapidated buses, used to transport prisoners over 30 years ago. Crammed full with fellow travellers from all different cultures, we listened as our first guide was introduced.
“My name is 60/63 because I was a political prisoner during these years,” said Sideeq Levy. “During this time many atrocities happened in this hell hole. But the latest buzz word in South Africa is reconciliation and we are working hand in hand with ex-wardens today on the island.”
The bus is silent and sombre as we pull up at the quarry where we are told prisoners were forced to do hard labour.
We’re then introduced to another former political prisoner, Lionel Davis, who served a seven-year sentence from 1964-1971.
He takes us into the solitary confinement section. “Political prisoners were brought to Robben Island by boat in chains and given an ID card describing what they were sentenced for, how long they had to serve, their religion and a thumb print.
“They left their personal belongings and were given a prison uniform – different clothing according to their colour classification. For example Africans were issued sandals while Indians were also given socks. None of the political prisoners were given underwear until the ’80s.”
Davis leads us through to a courtyard. It’s a sunny day but there is a chill in the air. There are some black and white photographs of former prisoners. A shutter of a cell slams loudly – the only thing that distracts our attention from the gripping story.
We are sitting next to the isolation section. Here 30 political prisoners, such as Mandela and Davis himself were held.
Davis describes how he played and walked in this courtyard to keep spirits high, despite incredible hardships.
“In ’62 the first political prisoners were brought to Robben island and experienced exceptionally hard times. When I came in ’64 things were still bad. We were forced to do hard labour in the quarry. We could only write and receive one letter every six months and have one visit every six months from one member of our family, but not children.”
However, Davis does not seem to be bitter. “It’s not easy to forget but it is easy to forgive,” he said, even after describing some of the horrific punishments carried out.
Davis then explains how hunger strikes and efforts by organisations such as the United Nations, Amnesty International and the Red Cross improved conditions.
To illustrate the changes he takes us inside the solitary confinement building to inspect the 30 individual isolation cells.
Each one is set out to tell a story and illustrate the gradual improvements in conditions over time. The first cell for example has just one mat and three blankets, whereas one nearby has a bed, a comfort which only came to prisoners arriving in ’79.
Another cell features a pile of books, while another further down the row has board games. “The first real change came in ’66 when we were allowed to study,” says Davis. “But they still made it difficult for us as the money had to come from your family and be paid in cash.”
In ’78, prisoners could listen to pre-recorded music and censored radio news, while in 1980 censored newspapers could be distributed. By ’89 prisoners had TVs .
“But the biggest change which took place was in the hearts and minds of the political prisoners,” stresses Davis. “We all came from different cultures, spoke different languages but learnt to share food, tolerance and speak each other’s languages until we became united.”
Cell number five draws the most interest. It was where President Mandela’s was imprisoned. Davis tells us how Mandela began writing his autobiography The Long Walk to Freedom in ’74 and how it was later smuggled to London for publication.
He summed up visitors response to the island: “People don’t go away feeling down, they go away feeling elated, with a positive feeling that we are all contributing to a better society,” he says.