Journey of discovery
Alighting from the Eastern and Oriental Express at Tanjong Pagar Station, we were met by Josephine Ho, our tour guide, and transferred to the magnificent Mandarin Oriental. Having journeyed in style, we had arrived at our destination – sophisticated Singapore.
The Oriental stands in beautiful gardens and occupies a superb harbour-front position. Our room was on the 19th floor, which, with the 20th floor, forms the Oriental Club’s 53 guest rooms and exclusive facilities for frequent business travellers (the separate check-out service included is a welcome innovation).
The hotel forms part of the Marina Square Complex, incorporating a shopping mall, a supermarket, two cinemas, restaurants and boutiques – it is the mother of all leisure centres.
One wash-and-brush-up later, and we were off to explore Singapore. It was soon evident that, in this city-state, east meets west at its business best.
The place manages to combine the slick cosmopolitan feel of a metropolis with the simple charm of a less cynical society. Here modern buildings co-exist with bustling street markets, and Hindu and Buddhist temples stand alongside mosques in an inspiring testimony to social and religious cohesion.
Our tour took us past the famous Raffles Hotel, newly restored following a recent fire, where our guide told us about the achievements of the founder of Singapore Sir Stamford Raffles, of whom Singaporeans are so clearly still proud.
The tour ended with a bumboat ride on the Singapore river from Clarke Quay, over which skyscrapers towered and stretched into the sky. Our river excursion took us to Boat Quay – the only place to be for those in the know – where we dined on delicious Indonesian food at the Sundanese Restaurant. A fabulous introduction to this fascinating place.
Tales from the deep blue sea
A breakfast meeting with Angeline Tang and Oliver Chang of the Singapore Tourism Board the next morning whetted my appetite for the trip to Sentosa Island by cable car, and my expectations were not disappointed.
I found Sentosa delightful, and so did the few holidaymakers I came across enjoying the tranquil, unspoilt man-made beaches. Unfortunately we couldn’t stay and sunbathe as we had an appointment at the Underwater World.
This state-of-the-art attraction takes visitors to the bottom of the sea. It was really sensational to be able to get really close to sting-rays, sharks and all manner of marine life while being transported through an 83 metre-long tunnel.
Quite apart from the close-up view I had of the fish, many of whom put me in mind of some of my relatives, I soon learnt a great deal about them – a credit to those Singaporeans whose mission it is to educate people about the conservation of many of these endangered species.
From the thrill of the sea bed, we moved on to the more sobering exhibition depicting the Japanese surrender of Singapore, which told us a little about about the struggles the country has experienced this century. At lunchtime, I enjoyed more of Singapore’s varied cuisine, this time sampling a Malayan and Chinese menu. I am unable to report on the dates prepared with a sauce made from bird spittle as, in a moment of gourmet cowardliness, I declined it.
We did not waste a minute of our time in Singapore. In the evening, we went on a Night Safari, something of an unexpected treat on an Oriental holiday, but a major selling point in my view.
Opened in 1994, it was the world’s first Night Safari park, offering tourists the opportunity to witness over 1,200 creatures in their natural habitats. An electric tram wound its way slowly through rain forest and jungle lit discreetly by artificial light, which gave us the impression that we were only a few feet away from a tiger. Thankfully, a dry moat separates man from his beastly friends, but the lighting does enhance the excitement.
The commentary at the beginning of our safari was drowned out by the noise from some rowdy British tourists (why are they always British?) who eventually shut up when told to do so by a lady with a heavy European accent and a short temper. Perhaps the park officials should insist on silence on board
Along the route there are tram stops where visitors can hop off and walk along the many trails. We certainly felt exhilarated by this atmospheric landscape.
Several leopards, a handful of elephants and some scaly reptiles later, and we retired to our hotel.
Bird song takes the stage
We took breakfast the next morning at a local coffee shop. Here locals arrived with caged song-birds in tow, which they hung up above the tables. So we ate to a chorus of birds singing as the feathered inmates communicated with one another.
Birds set the theme of the day as our next stop was the Jurong Bird Park, home to over 8,000 birds and the world’s tallest man-made waterfall. Here various species can be viewed from an aerial vantage point. This was a super family attraction, with birdshows to entertain the children.
A little time for shopping in Arab Street, where silk, leather and basket work were on offer was followed by a visit to the golden-domed Sultan’s Mosque and then to Little India, where the scent of flower garlands intermingling with spices was a fragrant delight.
A dynamic dinner at a food hall rounded off the day. At 7pm the street is closed to traffic and filled instead with stalls cooking all sorts of exciting food.
Our last day in Singapore meant a visit to a wet market with fresh fish for sale, a little last-minute shopping and a visit to the Chinese herbalist.
As we boarded our Cathay Pacific flight home, I was struck by how safe, clean and family friendly Singapore is. As we flew home in comfort, I started to think about how best to sell all three destinations as the truly exotic alternatives to the more familiar long-haul family resorts. Many, many thanks to all who made this the educational a trip of a lifetime.
n Maureen Hill works at Wessex World Travel, Gillingham, Dorset