| Journal: TWUK | Section: |
| Title: | Issue Date: 22/05/00 |
| Author: | Page Number: 34 |
| Copyright: Other |
The golden triangle by Isobel Choat
Riding rickshaws gives rise to Delhi good trip
Discovering the true taste of the country
The rickshaw driver swerves to a halt by an old iron railway bridge and points to the women below washing clothes on the bank of the river.“This is real India, my friend,” he tells me, before we set off again into the chaos that is Delhi’s traffic system. Curvy old-fashioned Ambassador cars, bicycles, automated rickshaws, buses overloaded with passengers, horse-drawn carts and mopeds carrying whole families all vie for space on the roads. Not to mention the dogs, goats and cows that wander the city freely.
Hemel, our tour guide, had advised us to take taxis from the hotel if we wanted to explore the city. But instead I decided to risk a bone-rattling rickshaw ride. It made a change from the coach and I did feel I was getting a taste of ‘real India.’
By coach we visited the Jama Masjid Mosque. I tried to climb one of the minarets for the view over the city but discovered women were not allowed. The highlight of sightseeing in Delhi is the vast Red Fort which overlooks a market where traders sit under umbrellas selling everything from old bicycle parts to stereos. After the noise, dirt and frenetic pace of Old Delhi, New Delhi comes as quite a shock. The roads are wide and quiet, the public places are clean and boys play cricket in the large parks. It is a different world although the hawkers and snake charmers are never far away. Outside the president’s house, a man entertained a crowd of tourists with two monkeys dressed in costume dancing to the beat of a tambourine. It was a sorry sight.
The chief attraction of Agra and the highlight of Bales’ Magic of India tour is the Taj Mahal. After seeing it many times on postcards and TV programmes, I wondered whether it would live up to my expectations. It did. The world’s greatest monument dedicated to love – it was built by emperor Shah Jahan in 1653 in memory of his wife – was stunning.
The white marble gleamed in the sunshine, reflected in the ornamental pools in the grounds and inside the walls shimmered with precious stones. Opposite is the Agra fort where the emperor spent the last eight years of his life, imprisoned by his son, who had seized power.
After most people had gone, we stayed on to watch the Taj at sunset. Although it didn’t turn pink as we’d expected, it was still incredibly beautiful in the fading evening light.
En route to Jaipur, we stopped at Bharatpur, a bird sanctuary, home to about 400 different species, although I stayed behind as it was my turn to be sick that day – at least half the group got a 24hr bug. I woke up in Jaipur feeling groggy and bizarrely the first thing I saw was two painted elephants walking down the main road.
Jaipur, also known as the pink city due to the colour of the stone used to build much of it, was lovely. We toured the town leaping out to take photos of the Palace of the Winds. Outside the air-conditioned coach the air was thick with the smell of incense, spices and exhaust fumes. On our final day we took an elephant ride up the hillside to the magnificent Amber Fort. Four of us sat in the table-like seat, the turbaned rider balancing on the elephant’s head. From the top there was a fantastic view, unrivalled in Rajasthan and below elephants loll in the lake. I couldn’t believe I’d be back in London the next day.
Top stop: Amber Fort in Rajasthan is featured as part of the itinerary
Jaipur:Gateway to the Old City
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Bales Worldwide – Magic of India Day 1: fly from Heathrow to Delhi.
New developments
India’s first designer hotel is attracting the attention of upmarket operators to the country.
With just 18 rooms, The Manor is being billed as India’s only boutique hotel, offering an oasis of calm in the otherwise bustling city of Delhi.
The hotel was developed by London-based architect Vinay Kapoor who was influenced by trendy London establishments such as the Metropolitan and The Halkin hotels, and its decor is sleek and chic with Indian features such as silks, handmade carpets and wooden furniture.
“The majority of accommodation in India is either international chains or converted palaces. Hotels tend to be classic in design with waiters wearing traditional dress. This is very contemporary with modern cuisine,” said a spokesman.
Upmarket operator Cox and Kings is introducing the property to its 2001 programme.
Cox and Kings research and development executive Priya Aggarwal said: “It is a totally different ethos to the existing accommodation in India. In such a bustling city as Delhi, it is a place where people can escape. Because it is so small, it has an intimate feel and guests feel like they are staying in someone’s home rather than a hotel.”
A representative from Elegant Resorts is visiting The Manor this week and may also add to it to its India programme.
Aimed at both the leisure and the business market, the property currently attracts 75% international and 25 % domestic business.
“A lot of people from the Bollywood scene – India’s equivalent of Hollywood – stay here,” said the spokesman.
Rates for the hotel start at around £125 for a twin or double or £231 for suites.
There is currently a special offer of £180 for a one-night package including chauffeur-driven airport transfer, accommodation in a club room, laptop on request, welcome drink, full Indian breakfast, dinner for two at Seventy Seven – the hotel restaurant a chauffeur driven, half-day tour of Delhi and use of the gym.
Factfile
The manor
The Manor: an oasis of calm in the bustling city of Delhi