Destinations

Australia: A taste of the finer things

THINK Western Australia and the words hot, red and dusty spring to mind. However, head just three hours south of Perth and you could almost be in Dorset.

Green rolling hills, grazing cows, narrow country lanes, towering trees and vintage cars make up the topography of the Margaret River region. It’s located more than 9,200 miles from England, yet it doesn’t feel a world away.

But the landscape is where the similarity ends. There’s no potent cider or pork scratchings here, sell the region on its award-winning food and wine, abundance of five-star hotels and Australian refinery.

Pulling up the gravel driveway of a country estate for a two-day wine tour of the region, I couldn’t help feeling apprehensive. Not averse to buying £3 bottles of supermarket plonk, I wondered how I’d get on with people who knew their semillon from their sauvignon blanc and used it to wash down expensive dinners on a regular basis.

I needn’t have worried. Snobbery isn’t welcome here with the down-to-earth Aussie nature reigning supreme.

Perhaps it’s the history of the region that has kept the locals so grounded. The Margaret River was once one of the poorest areas in Australia until a Frenchman declared the climate and soil similar to Bordeaux. The wine came soon after and so too did the money.

Well-known brands such as MadFish, Moss and Vasse Felix now produce non-woody chardonnay – a regional specialty – sauvignon blanc, riesling, shiraz, merlot and white, pink or tawny port. Vineyards come complete with cellar doors for guests who can try up to eight varieties without putting their hands in their pockets. And with 95 wineries in a stretch similar in size to that between London and Cambridge, it’s amazing anybody gets to work in the morning.

australia feature 021205 - surfingLuckily wine isn’t the only thing the region has to offer with more than 60 miles of wild, unspoilt coastline providing great surf and – as I was reliably informed – an almost infallible antidote to a sore head. With surf competitions running throughout the year, the locals are a far cry from the red-nosed, pot-bellied wine connoisseur stereotype.

To clear my own grape-induced headache, I decided instead to adopt the British approach to curing a hangover – eating.

Despite world-renowned chefs, several culinary awards and increasing acclaim, the locals insist on referring to their food as blotting paper, believing it exists merely to soak up the wine.

But that’s a huge disservice to some of the best cuisine in Australia since the area is dotted with cheese factories, fudge emporiums, chocolate shops, delicatessens and some 30 restaurants – a fifth of them Michelin starred. It’s no wonder the Margaret River welcomes an average 300,000 visitors a year.

So far, the UK market remains relatively untapped, with most visitors escaping Perth for the weekend, but more tour operators are beginning to brochure the region.

“We’re just about to do a big campaign with the trade to get more exposure to this part of the world,” said Qantas Holidays sales and marketing manager David Reid, who has sold the Margaret River for more than four years.

“It’s only three hours from Perth, the roads are fantastic, plus there are great beaches and lovely restaurants, not to mention all the wineries. You could literally spend a week here and, with more accommodation coming on board, it’s starting to appeal to a wider audience.”

The area has accommodation catering for all budgets and is an ideal place for couples and families alike.

Whether it be a forest retreat, a spa hotel, a wooden lodge, a caravan or a holiday cottage they’re looking for, guests will never be short of a bed for the night.

Nor will they be short of an open fire, a bottle of wine or a wonderful meal. And all in good company. Not bad for a country better known for its weak beer.

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