ALTHOUGH Dieppe is the prettiest of the Channel ports, with good shopping and fine dining, it is largely unknown in the UK market.
One of its problems is that it is linked to the UK departure port of Newhaven, which itself is not well known.
It also suffered when P&O Stena Line pulled off the route in January and there was no service to Dieppe until Hoverspeed resumed sailings in April.
Hoverspeed now operates a SuperSeaCat on the route, bringing crossing time down to 2hrs and making it a good choice for a day trip. If passengers do not want to take their car, there is a bus service from the port into the centre of town and, once there, the shopping area is small enough to wander around comfortably.
The shops are all sited in and around Grande Rue and a number of narrow streets leading off from it.
Many buildings in this area are undergoing excellent restoration work, although there is still much to be done.
Aside from the usual high-street outlets, many of Dieppe’s shops are small and typically French.
There is a good selection of speciality wine shops in town, some of which allow you to taste before you buy, as well as outlets selling Normandy produce, chocolate and French bread and pastries. They all shut for lunch from 12pm-2pm.
The town is packed with restaurants, many of which line the Quai d’Henri IV, with prices to suit every pocket.
This is a popular eating spot as there are guaranteed views over the pretty harbour and many restaurants accept sterling in payment. However, the menus, many in English, are very similar – most concentrate on fish dishes.
There is not much in Dieppe in the way of attractions – the crumbling Eglise St Jacques, at the end of Place National, and Eglise St Remi will look stunning when they are renovated.
It is worth the short climb to the chateau overlooking the town. The view is good and there is a museum of sculptured ivories.
The town’s beach is long and pebbly and, I would guess, windy for most of the year. Out of town, the garden at Parc du Bois des Moutiers, designed by Gertrude Jekyll, and the chateau at Miromesnil are popular excursions.
Getting there
Hoverspeed: fast-ferry SuperSeaCat operates one return crossing a day in winter on Friday, Saturday and Sunday and up to three a day April-October. There will be a full week’s service in October to coincide with half term. Crossing time is 2hrs. The bus into town costs £1.50 return. Tickets can be bought on board.
Attractions
Chateau and Museum de Dieppe, Rue de Chastes: dates from 1435 and houses sculptured ivory collection. Entry £1.50.
Parc du Bois des Moutiers, Varengeville-sur-Mer (10mins from Dieppe): English-designed garden. Entry £3.50. Parc du Chateau de Miromesnil, Tourville-sur-Arques (10mins from Dieppe). Guided tours for £3.50.
Shopping
Try Flahaut (147 Grande Rue) for bread and pastries and JP Roussel (113 Grande Rue) for chocolate. For wine, M Pommier (corner of Place National and Grande Rue) has a small selection from £3-£15 a bottle, while M Olivier (16 Rue St Jacques) combines fine wine with a speciality cheese shop. Others to visit include Le Sommelier (Rue des Maillots) and LC Vins Les Caves Ste Catherine (Rue Ste Catherine). For out-of-town wine and beer shopping, the Auchan supermarket is in the Belvedere Centre, 5mins by car from the centre. It offers easy parking for bulk buying. Hoverspeed’s Grape Shop wine and beer outlet in Dieppe Port also has parking and very keen prices – red or white wine from 90p a bottle. You can taste before you buy. The market, considered one of the best in northern France, is on Saturday in Place National.
Restaurants
Visitors are spoilt for choice, provided you want fish. L’Ocean, Sully and Le
Festival on Quai d’Henri IV all looked worth trying. The Melie (Grande Rue du Pollet) is said to be the best in Dieppe. Prices from £18.
Family: Fruits de Mer, Quai d’Henri IV. Despite the name, it does not just serve fish. Three-course menus start from £5.50; children’s menu for meal and dessert is £4.50.
Typically French: La Marmite Dieppoise, Rue St Jean. Four-course menus from £10 to £22. The marmite special (fish stew) that gives the restaurant its name costs £28.
Speciality: Restaurant du Port, Quai d’Henri IV. Oysters, turbot and salmon included in the menu. A five-course menu costs £22.