Heading south on USHighway 1, the sweltering suburbs of Miami seem like a distant memory. Only 1hr ago we were completely surrounded by the rush-hour traffic.
Now we are surrounded by sea. To the left is the Atlantic Ocean, to the right the Gulf of Mexico and ahead of us is the open road.
It’s impossible to get lost in the Florida Keys. The Overseas Highwayis the only road connecting this 100-mile string of islands and you are either heading north or south on it.
For the first 60 miles the highway is lined with fishing tackle shops, dive equipment stores and small marinas which gives you some clue to the main activities on offer here.
The Keys are the game fishing capital of the USand the offshore coral reef and ship wrecks make fascinating terrain for divers.
But if close encounters with fish are not your thing then continue on to Key West, the tourist hotspot and capital of the so-called Conch Republic. Conchs are large sea snails – a local speciality which crops up on restaurant menus all over the Keys.
You know when you’re nearing the end of the road when signs for the Southernmost Gas Station and Southernmost Waffle House start to appear.
Just 90 miles from Cuba and seemingly a million miles from mainland US, the Keys have always celebrated their distinctive character.
Originally an outpost for pirates and wreckers, Key West has now become a magnet for artists, hippies and a thriving gay community.
These exist alongside a sizeable Caribbean community from the Bahamas and Cuba which no doubt contributes to the island’s laid-back feel.
Key West’s Old Town is one of the few parts of the USwhere you can leave the car behind and venture out on foot. Centre of the action is Duval Street which looks as though it could have been used as a model for Disneyland’s Mainstreet USA.
By day it’s a good place to catch up on some gift shopping or browse in tiny art galleries. By night loud rock music blares from bars such as Sloppy Joe’s and Captain Tony’s – both of which lay claim to be the drinking haunt of former Key West resident Ernest Hemingway. The writer’s house is one of the town’s main visitor attractions and well worth a visit.
Away from Duval Street the sleepy backstreets retain their character. Pastel-coloured clapboard houses with porches and picket fences line roads overgrown with palm trees, bougainville and frangipani.
Many of the bigger houses have been immaculately restored to their former grandeur and converted into delightful inns offering bed-and-breakfast accommodation.
The main event of the day is the famed Sunset Celebration in Mallory Square. Every night at dusk a huge crowd gathers to watch buskers, fire eaters and tightrope walkers perform against the brilliant orange backdrop of the setting sun.
As the last rays sink into the sea the crowd disperses and is absorbed by Key West’s many bars and restaurants. Seafood features prominently on most menus but for a true taste of the Keys there’s only one choice:Conch fritters followed by Key Lime Pie.