My first encounter with Turkey was not a Turkish delight. Arriving in Dalaman at some awful hour in the morning, I was forced to join my other weary co-travellers in a regimented queue in front of two very stern looking customs officers who were issuing visas in exchange for £10 notes.
Each person has to hand over an exact £10 – two crisp fives were not acceptable, likewise a £20 note for two people would also be rebuffed. And as for shrapnel – forget it.
This caused panic from those who had arrived unprepared and sparked a frantic hunt into pockets and handbags – some even resorted to begging.
Unsurprisingly this created a substantial delay before our transfer coach set off and, being my first visit to Turkey, this was not the best start.
Three hours later I arrived in Kalkan, on the Mediterranean coast. I’d purposely chosen this small fishing village from the operator’s brochure because it sounded so quaint.
Tapestry Holidays include it in its Uncommercial Turkey brochure and, compared with the likes of Bodrum, it is.
There are only a few nightclubs and bars and the volume of music is controlled, since the village is protected by a conservation order.
For those wanting to get a feel for the real Turkey Kalkan is an ideal spot.
Whitewashed villas cover an entire hillside tumbling down to the centre of the village. It has held on to its unspoilt feel with all its shops, restaurants and bars found primarily along the small cobbled street that winds down to the harbour front.
During the evenings this street can get packed as diners spill out onto the pavements, but during the day it is pretty much deserted as holidaymakers laze by their hotel or the beachclub pools (there is no beach) or take off to explore the nearby attractions.
If pre-departure tours haven’t been booked then there are a number of operators in the village such as Abi Travel, or it is fairly simple to get around independently.
For 50p a local minibus or dolmus will take you to Patara which undoubtedly has one of the most spectacular beaches in the Med.
Its white sands stretch for 12 miles and can get scorchingly hot, so it’s best to keep your shoes on and hire a sun umbrella for shade.
Visitors will be charged to visit the beach and entry after dusk is prohibited since it is a conservation area – at night loggerhead turtles waddle up to the sands to bury their eggs.
A must do for any visitor is the Sunken City tour around the coast to Kekova.
The whole of this region is scattered with Lycian ruins, but this trip is not simply a day of traipsing around amphitheatres since many ruins are submerged under the sea and are viewed through crystal clear waters from a boat.
Setting off from the totally unspoilt and rustic village of Ucagiz, groups cruise around the huge scattering of tiny islands just off the mainland and as well as archaeology, time is built in to swim in hidden coves and explore some of the small delightful villages.
Needless to say, my first impressions of Turkey were completely wrong.
The hospitality of the Turkish people is amazing, the food is fresh, the weather is great and as for value for money, it comes highly recommended.
Turkey – Mediterranean coast
Appeals to: those looking for a quiet, relaxing holiday. Mainly older couples rather than young single-sex groups
Hotels: the three-star Hotel Pirat and Hotel Samira; five-star Kalkan Regency and Oasis
Activities: tour the Sunken City of Kekova; hire a gulet and cruise along the coast for three days; visit spectacular Patara beach, home to the loggerhead turtles; scuba diving schools operate from neighbouring Kas where divers can explore Ottoman wrecks; or take a Turkish bath at the Regency Hotel
Best buys: explore the nearby markets – Kalkan on Thursdays and Fethiye on Tuesday – to buy your ‘designer’ clothes; hand-painted ceramic plates; Turkish Delight; fresh herbs; hand-woven lace table cloths and silver jewellery
Value for money: expect to pay around 50p for a bottle of beer
Sample package price: Sunworld offers two weeks in Hotel Samira from £319 per person based on bed and breakfast in twin/double room.
Best time to go: July and August can get very hot and busy. In May the temperature is more comfortable.
Getting there: transfer time from Dalaman airport is around 3hrs.