gloomy interior of this striking medieval sanctuary, shafts of light illuminated the cloaked figure of the High Priest offering salvation to people at the altar. Clouds of incense and soft chanting wafted through the ancient building and only the dress of parishioners told me this was the end of the second, not the first millennium.
We continued journeying back in time, picking up the Via Dolorosa (the route where Christ walked with the cross). I had to keep reminding myself that I was now walking in the footsteps of Christ – from the point where he was condemned by Herod to the crucifixion and entombment, now marked by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
This bulky fortress-like building is the goal for every Christian who visits Jerusalem and, consequently, it is always teeming with pilgrims. But even amid the holy pandemonium peace can be found. By the church entrance we ascended a narrow steep staircase and at the top an amazing scene greeted me. The rooftop is home to an Ethiopian convent and the monastic cells of Egyptian Copts, or Christians. Old men dressed in jellabahs and traditional headgear shuffled about their business oblivious to passing visitors. Up here was pure North Africa.
Descending from the roof brought us into the Old City’s narrow souks with all the smells, sights and sounds.
The Damascus Gate, built 500 years ago by Suleiman the Magnificent, was our next goal. It was just outside the walls that (according to Anglican tradition) Christ was crucified, on the hill of Golgotha. Sure enough a small skull-shaped bluff still exists, and below, set in a peaceful garden is the famous Garden Tomb.
We skirted the city walls clockwise to the Mount of Olives and the Garden of Gethsemane with the classic view of Jerusalem. From here the magnificent gold-crowned Islamic Dome of the Rock dominates the city, a reminder that Christianity is just one of Jerusalem’s three major faiths. Just behind is the Western (“Wailing”) Wall, where the devout come to grieve for the destruction of Solomon’s Temple.
The final stop on our tour was Bethlehem. This modern town is no longer a Christmas card picture but the beautiful Church of the Nativity is worth a visit. A plaque marks the traditional site of the birth and a manger is adjacent.
The country of Israel is where it all began 2,000 years ago and, taking a tour through the Holy Land, history is at every step.
I thought our guide would concentrate on the places where Christ lived and taught but as we entered the walled Old City we took a detour to the Armenian Church. As my eyes became accustomed to the gloomy interior of this striking medieval sanctuary, shafts of light illuminated the cloaked figure of the High Priest offering salvation to people at the altar. Clouds of incense and soft chanting wafted through the ancient building and only the dress of parishioners told me this was the end of the second, not the first millennium.
We continued journeying back in time, picking up the Via Dolorosa (the route where Christ walked with the cross). I had to keep reminding myself that I was now walking in the footsteps of Christ – from the point where he was condemned by Herod to the crucifixion and entombment, now marked by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
This bulky fortress-like building is the goal for every Christian who visits Jerusalem and, consequently, it is always teeming with pilgrims. But even amid the holy pandemonium peace can be found. By the church entrance we ascended a narrow steep staircase and at the top an amazing scene greeted me. The rooftop is home to an Ethiopian convent and the monastic cells of Egyptian Copts, or Christians. Old men dressed in jellabahs and traditional headgear shuffled about their business oblivious to passing visitors. Up here was pure North Africa.
Descending from the roof brought us into the Old City’s narrow souks with all the smells, sights and sounds.
The Damascus Gate, built 500 years ago by Suleiman the Magnificent, was our next goal. It was just outside the walls that (according to Anglican tradition) Christ was crucified, on the hill of Golgotha. Sure enough a small skull-shaped bluff still exists, and below, set in a peaceful garden is the famous Garden Tomb.
We skirted the city walls clockwise to the Mount of Olives and the Garden of Gethsemane with the classic view of Jerusalem. From here the magnificent gold-crowned Islamic Dome of the Rock dominates the city, a reminder that Christianity is just one of Jerusalem’s three major faiths. Just behind is the Western (“Wailing”) Wall, where the devout come to grieve for the destruction of Solomon’s Temple.
The final stop on our tour was Bethlehem. This modern town is no longer a Christmas card picture but the beautiful Church of the Nativity is worth a visit. A plaque marks the traditional site of the birth and a manger is adjacent.
jerusalem
Where to go in Jerusalem? The most interesting and important sites in Jerusalem, from the Wailing Wall to the Dome of Rock and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, relate to its ancient and religious history but there are also sites covering more recent history including Yad Veshem, the holocaust museum, and the Israeli parliament building. The giant market runs from just inside the Jaffa gate to Damascus gate, connecting the Muslim and Christian quarters. It is one of the oldest markets in the world and sells everything from clothes to leather goods and religious artefacts (you can even buy holy air).
Flight time: average 4hrs 30mins to 5hrs to Tel Aviv. Jerusalem is about a 45min drive from Tel Aviv airport.
Time difference: GMT +2.
Vaccinations: hepatitis A, polio and typhoid.
Currency: Israeli shekels (£1 = 6-7 shekels).
When to go?The south (including Eilat) is warm and dry all year round, from 21C in January to 40C in July/August. Jerusalem and the uplands in the north of the country are hot May to October (25-30C) but mild to cool (11-19C) and wet in winter.
Language: Hebrew and Arabic are the official languages though English is widely spoken.
Average costs:by Mediterranean standards Israel is expensive. A three-course meal per person (excluding wine) in a good restaurant costs around £20, a pint of beer £2.50-£3 and a soft drink 50p-75p.
Your holiday: the Mount Zion Hotel, just outside the Old City walls, is an excellent base for Jerusalem and Bethlehem. Around the Sea of Galilee try the Four Points at Tiberias. Return flights with El Al start at £191. Superstar offers seven nights at Jerusalem’s Four Points Sheraton from £407 lead-in with El Al flights while seven nights at the King David leads in at £827. Contact the Israel Government Tourist Office on 0207 299 1111.