Ancient ruins, classic flavours and stunning scenery – Deborah Cicurel experiences the timeless appeal of Rhodes
With the buzz of smartphones, the ping of social media and the rush of traffic, it can feel impossible to escape the pressures of the modern world. But I think I’ve found a way.
My muscles ache, the sun beats down and all I can see for miles is twinkling sea, jagged hilltops and rocky coastline. I’m standing in a vertiginous clifftop corner of Rhodes’ Acropolis of Lindos and feel as if I’ve been given a window on an ancient civilisation.
In this peaceful and incredibly well-preserved archaeological site, which dates from the sixth century BC, I don’t even need to shut my eyes to pretend I’ve been transported back to ancient times: the myths and magic of the classical era seem to be within touching distance of these windswept columns.
In fact, Rhodes was home to one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World – the bronze Colossus of Rhodes, which was once the tallest statue in the world, before an earthquake brought it toppling down.
Food in Rhodes
Among the 6,000 islands in Greece, Rhodes, which is the largest of the Dodecanese group, is a consistently popular draw. And after the steep walk up to these ancient ruins – my smartwatch reminding me that I don’t live in ancient times, as it buzzes with congratulations for my sudden increase in daily steps – I can certainly understand Rhodes’ enduring appeal.
When I finally descend the 116 metres from the Acropolis, I come back to the modern world with a jolt. A walk through the winding streets of Lindos village showcases souvenir shops selling handmade olive-wood trays, floaty linen dresses, pretty ceramics and evil-eye jewellery. I may not be able to take the magic of these ruins home with me, but a talisman around my wrist feels like a good start.
I’ve come to Rhodes’ southern half to explore the villages of Lindos and Gennadi, staying first at adult-only Lindos Grand Resort & Spa, and then family-friendly Gennadi Grand Resort – both five-star beachfront properties owned by Lindos Hotels Group. I feel a little like an archaeologist coming across a surprise wonder when I discover a delightful secret within the hotels: the creative culinary scene at each property.
Meal after meal is not only mouthwateringly tasty, but also beautifully and creatively presented, with unexpected ingredients. The flavours and textures are uniquely Greek and delicious: think ice cream made with red pepper and yoghurt; lollipops formed from tzatziki and edible flowers; and shiso leaves stuffed with seabass tartar. But the standout dish has to be the chocolate ganache dessert in the shape of a cigar, complete with smoking caramel ash flickering with a flame, at Gennadi Grand’s STK restaurant.
With food this good, the temptation is to spend all day wandering from restaurant to cafe and back again – punctuated by stretches of relaxation on the pebbly beach. But clients who are keen to see more of Rhodes have plenty to explore.
Rhodes to recovery
On a walk through Gennadi village, my camera never gets a break as I snap the postcard-pretty scenes: bougainvillea fluttering in the breeze, white houses framed with cobalt paint, three churches and a modest olive press museum where you can learn the traditional method of making olive oil.
Encourage clients to get a different view of the Acropolis on a boat trip with Anerada Sailing, where, once again, I feel a sense of connection to the island’s classical past as we sail alongside rocky outcrops that haven’t changed through the ceaseless passage of time. Our charismatic captain, George, guides the boat through glittering bays, telling stories about the houses scattered over the hills and anchoring the boat so I can jump into the fresh, clear Aegean Sea for an invigorating respite from the bristling heat.
That heat brings to mind the devastating wildfires Rhodes suffered in 2023, in which 135,000 hectares of forest was burned. As part of its Forest Ambassador Programme, Lindos Hotels replants a tree for every booking and contributes funds annually to maintain 3,300 acres of forest land damaged in the fires.
While it’s no easy feat to bounce back from such a destructive event, the inhabitants of the island pulled together to repair their homes and businesses, and their efforts were rewarded: Rhodes set a new tourism record in 2024, welcoming 3.5 million visitors from January to September that year.
It’s heartening to experience the beauty of Rhodes as it recovers its rhythm. Just like the island’s ancient ruins, which have endured for millennia, Rhodes’ timelessness and resilience will, no doubt, bring record-busting numbers for years to come.
Book it
Tui sells a four-night bed-and-breakfast stay at Gennadi Grand Resort from £493 per person, based on two sharing. Includes transfers and flights departing Luton on May 6.
tui.co.uk
Jet2holidays offers seven nights’ B&B at Lindos Grand Resort and Spa from £1,019 per person, based on two people sharing. Includes 22kg baggage, transfers and flights departing Manchester on May 7.
jet2holidays.com/agents
Where to stay in Rhodes
Five-star facilities
Lindos Grand Resort & Spa
This 181-room resort is close to the Acropolis of Lindos, a top tourist attraction. Contrasting with its ancient surroundings, the Lindos Grand is a modern, sleek property with low-rise architecture, superb sea views, vast open spaces and an abundance of cool infinity pools.
Lindos has two bars and seven restaurants; suggest clients indulge in an affordable but outstanding tasting menu at Thalatta fine-dining restaurant and enjoy omakase at Yume Mou.
Gennadi Grand Resort
As well as the same aesthetically pleasing architecture, this 300-room resort has eight restaurants and three bars. There’s hearty comfort food at Italian-inspired Ten2One and fresh Greek classics at Ouzo. Clients will love the understated, minimalist rooms – many with private pools at a surprisingly reasonable cost. Like the Lindos Grand, the Gennadi is adjacent to a serene stretch of pebble beach, perfect for swimming in tranquil Mediterranean waters.
PICTURE: Harry Zampetoulas; Stathis Bouzoukas; Shutterstock/frantic00
